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  • Published: 19 January 2024

Predicting sustainable fashion consumption intentions and practices

  • Yingxiu Hong 1 , 2 ,
  • Abdullah Al Mamun 3 ,
  • Qing Yang 3 &
  • Mohammad Masukujjaman 4  

Scientific Reports volume  14 , Article number:  1706 ( 2024 ) Cite this article

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  • Environmental social sciences
  • Human behaviour

The fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment, and sustainable fashion consumption (SFC) has become a pressing concern. This study aimed to investigate the factors influencing sustainable fashion consumption behavior (SCB) among Chinese adults, specifically the role of values, attitudes, and norms in shaping such behavior, using the value-belief-norm framework. The study used an online cross-sectional survey design to collect data from 350 participants recruited through a convenience sampling method using social media platforms and email invitations, and the obtained data were analyzed using partial least squares structural equation modelling. The results of the study showed that biospheric (BV), altruistic (AV), and egoistic (EV) values significantly influenced the New ecological paradigm (EP), which, in turn, positively affected awareness of consequences (AC). Personal norms (PN) were positively influenced by EP, AC, and ascription of responsibility (AR). Social norms (SN) and trust in recycling (TR) were also found to positively influence sustainable fashion consumption intentions (SCI). Finally, the study found that SCI and TR were significant predictors of SCB, whereas the moderating effect of TR not statistically significant. The study’s originality lies in its comprehensive investigation of the interplay between various factors (particularly using norms in two facets; PN and SN) in shaping SCB, using a structural equation modeling approach, and exploring the moderating effect of TR. The findings of this study suggest that interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus on fostering values and beliefs that prioritize the environment, encouraging individuals to take responsibility for their actions, creating an environment in which SFC is normalized, and increasing TR.

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Introduction.

The issue of global environmental pollution is exacerbated by unsustainable consumer practices, such as the excessive or one-time acquisition of clothing items 1 . China, the world's largest textile manufacturing nation, grapples with textile and garment production waste exceeding 100 million tons 2 and an annual disposal of roughly 26 million tons of used clothing, projected to rise to around 50 million tons by 2030, with a recycling rate of less than 1% 3 . In response to these challenges, China, along with other countries, has committed to achieving "net-zero carbon emissions" by 2050 4 , which necessitates collaboration between the fashion industry and the general public. One of the key strategies in this context is the adoption of second-hand consumption 5 . Reintroducing pre-owned items extends product lifecycles, curbing the need for new items, conserving energy and resources, and significantly reducing the environmental impact tied to consumer behavior, emphasizing the crucial role of sustainable consumption 6 .

Despite certain advancements in the industry, it is noteworthy that China's volume of second-hand goods transactions amounted to just over half of that seen in the United States 1 , 7 . Similarly, the second-hand clothing-sharing market in China is still in an exploratory stage compared to the European market 1 . Given China's influence on traditional social hierarchy thinking, Chinese individuals tend to prioritize identity and status, which may lead to more rigid perspectives on second-hand items 8 . Chinese people often tend to be conservative, placing a premium on privacy, and may display some reluctance towards items from unfamiliar sources 1 . Nevertheless, with the global consensus on sustainable development, the sharing economy has gained increasing prominence among Chinese youth 9 . Simultaneously, government initiatives and state influence have promoted sustainable consumption across different segments of society 10 , potentially leading to a shift in the attitudes of consumers with rigid views on second-hand product sharing and trading. With its vast population and status as the world's largest clothing consumer, it underscores the untapped opportunities within China's second-hand clothing market and its potential for sustained expansion 11 . Therefore, platforms must evaluate present consumer considerations and identify the factors influencing consumption, enabling them to align with the right developmental trajectory.

Previous research has examined how mainstream consumers feel about and choose sustainable fashions. Environmental concerns and social norms (SN) are the main reasons why people buy sustainable fashion 12 , 13 , 14 . Conversely, recent research indicates an increased environmental consciousness among individuals, leading to a greater inclination to purchase eco-friendly products, including fast fashion items 15 , second-hand apparel 5 , reduced clothing consumption, and clothing recycling practices 16 . Other studies 17 , 18 have found that some eco-conscious consumers prefer to buy sustainable fashion by purchasing eco-friendly brands or buying used clothing, and recycling, reusing, renting, or swapping clothing. Despite a link between people’s causes and ways of throwing away clothes, practitioners and policymakers know that expectations and reality are not the same regarding the use and disposal of fashion products 19 . Hur 20 states that the majority of individuals are unaware of what happens to donated used apparel when it has reached the end of its useful life. Therefore, little attention has been paid to encouraging sustainable fashion consumption (SFC) through policy interventions or learning about how consumers reuse second-hand clothing. Thus, it is becoming increasingly important to understand what makes people want to buy sustainable fashion, and how they feel about reusing second-hand clothes.

Various theoretical frameworks have been used to determine sustainable behavior. Researchers have employed the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB) and the Norm Activation Model (NAM) theories in various research contexts, as demonstrated in previous studies 21 , 22 . In recent years, an increasing number of researchers have utilized value-belief-norm (VBN) theory to predict environment-friendly behavior, and have validated its efficacy in different settings, such as recycling 23 , energy conservation 24 , and public support for green policies 25 . Other scholars have proposed extended versions of these theoretical frameworks by integrating key constructs from the TPB, VBN, and NAM into better models 22 , 26 . Yeap et al. 27 studied the second-hand cloth purchase intention in Malaysia in the perspective of the customer-to-customer (C2C) online platform based on the Integrative Model of Behavioural Prediction. Lang and Armstrong 28 focused on examining the adoption of cloth renting and swapping among female consumers, thereby allowing space for a broader understanding applicable to both male and female consumers overall. Recently, Zhang et al. 29 utilized TAM and TPB as an integrated model to evaluate cloth disposal behavior in China. However, although Zahid et al. 30 investigated second-hand cloth purchasing behavior in the Chinese context, they failed to establish any theoretical basis to guide readers. However, the use of VBN in second-hand clothing is limited. Gomes et al. 31 recently used VBN theory in a comparative study between Brazil and the Netherlands, yet stressed its value and ignored the original model to a great extent. The VBN theory provides a distinct benefit when utilizing SFC by examining green behavior from the perspective of various essential components that are strongly linked to environmentalism, including values and ecological worldviews. The VBN theory addresses individuals' pro-social incentives by integrating rational-choice models that contain self-interest motivations related to environmentally friendly behavioral intents in various contexts 32 . Thus, the application of VBN with a couple of new variables may extend the understanding of the reuse behavior of second-hand clothing.

Although the TPB, VBN, and NAM theories have been used to measure environmental behavior in several studies, most have focused on single behaviors, such as recycling, household energy use, and green consumption, rather than multidimensional measures of environmental behavior. To the best of our knowledge, few studies have combined intentions and behaviors 33 . Davies and Gutsche 34 suggested that little research has been conducted on how people actually buy things, which makes people wonder how much is known about green consumption practices. Therefore, there is a pressing need for a deeper understanding of the reasons and processes behind distinct consumer behaviors. Consumers often experience psychological deflation that leads them to shop recreationally to relieve boredom or stress, creating a psychological imbalance between their sustainability worries and buying sustainable fashion 35 . Sustainable fashion consumption behavior (SCB) is further hindered by the need to express a certain social identity 36 and the absence of convenient and sustainable clothing options. Fast fashion is more readily available to customers than environmentally conscious apparel options that require more effort and time to track. Trust is also a significant factor in the transition from intention to behavior 37 , as hindering factors can prevent consumers from acting according to their initial intentions 38 . To narrow the gap between intention and behavior regarding second-hand clothing sharing, researchers should include trust issues as a moderating factor.

While many studies have been conducted on SFC in industrialized countries such as the US, Europe, and Asia, there is a noticeable lack of research on SFC in Asian countries 13 , 14 , 39 . In their comparative study, Su et al. 14 conducted research in both the USA and China, utilizing the VBN framework and integrating constructs like apparel sustainability knowledge, consumer value, attitude, and willingness to purchase. Vehmas et al. 39 interviewed Finnish consumers about their perceptions and attitudes towards circular clothing and the communication and marketing channels of second-hand clothing without using any behavioral frameworks. Similarly, Baier et al. 13 sought answers about the drivers of pre- and post-purchase behavior in the German apparel and sports industry, using the segmented Kano method while excluding behavioral models. While studies such as Wang et al. 40 and Zhang et al. 29 addressed the issues of SFC from Chinese perspectives, the former analyzed the motivations and barriers to consumers' purchase of second-hand clothes, along with their perceived problems with this industry, without concentrating on adoption issues. In contrast, the latter study focused on another aspect of SFC, specifically cloth disposal behavior, with no indication regarding the adoption of second-hand cloth from customer perspectives. This is a significant gap, as SFC has become increasingly popular among consumers in these markets 41 especially the second-hand clothes because of their preference for fashion options with lower environmental and social impacts. However, sustainable consumerism in developing countries may be affected by a variety of cultural and economic factors, including, but not limited to, varied ethical ideals in relation to environmentally friendly fashion and lower income levels 14 . Studies have shown that sustainability knowledge and consumer preferences differ across countries, highlighting the importance of understanding cultural and economic differences 42 . Therefore, it is crucial to investigate sustainable fashion consumption exclusively on the Chinese setting to gain insight into consumers’ perspectives on the reuse of second-hand clothing.

To fill these knowledge gaps, current study created a theoretical model that analyzes the factors influencing shoppers’ decisions to buy second-hand clothing in China. The VBN variables were used in these models, and SN and trust were included. The primary goals of this research are to test whether the proposed framework, which incorporates social norms and trust, has higher predictive power than the original VBN models; find the most influential constructs for discussing intention and behavior; and assess whether VBN factors greatly impact people’s ecological behavior in the setting of second-hand clothes. This research contributes to the expanding body of literature on SFC by building upon prior studies that examine individual environmental behavior. It incorporates the VBN framework and proposes a comprehensive model to offer a more comprehensive understanding of the disparity between intention and conduct in SFC. This study effectively demonstrates the predictive effects of bi-dimensional norms, namely PN and SN, in shaping SFC, through their incorporation within the VBN frameworks. As a result, this study substantially contributes to the current understanding of the impact of social norms on promoting environmentally friendly behavior. From a managerial standpoint, this study offers valuable guidance for managers, emphasizing the need to integrate environmental values, awareness, responsibility, and trust in recycling into comprehensive strategies. Furthermore, the study underscores the managerial significance of actively shaping social norms supportive of SFC through sustainable fashion events, collaborations, and blogs, providing actionable guidance for managers seeking to influence consumer behavior and foster a broader culture of sustainability within the fashion industry. However, this paper is structured as follows: within its second section, it presents a literature review, outlines the proposed model, and presents the research hypotheses. Methods such as sampling, data gathering, measurement, and data analysis are outlined in “ Materials and methods ”. The results are presented in “ Findings ”, and the results, their possible effects, the study’s limitations, suggestions for further research, and closing remarks are discussed in “ Discussion ”.

Theoretical background and hypotheses development

According to Pencarelli et al. 43 , sustainable products offer environmental, societal, and economic advantages while safeguarding public health, welfare, and the environment throughout their entire commercial cycle, from raw material extraction to ultimate disposal, with a focus on meeting the needs of future generations. Similarly, Mohr et al. 44 define responsible consumption as a purchasing and consumption behavior pattern that aims to maximize long-term benefits while minimizing harmful impacts on both consumers and societies. In this study, the term SFC indicates the reuse of clothes, such as buying or selling used clothes at a minimal price 18 , swapping used clothes 28 , or donating used clothes to others. Thus, according to Bianchi and Gonzalez 45 , consumers who cannot afford high-priced fashion may choose to consume sustainably by purchasing second-hand apparel from thrift stores or swapping clothes with their family or friends. They may sell clothes at minimum prices to stores or donate clothes to those in need from a philanthropic viewpoint.

Theoretical foundation

VBN theory denotes that “individuals who accept a movement’s basic values, believe that valued objects are threatened, and believe that their actions can help restore those values, experience an obligation (personal norm) for pro-movement action” 46 . According to Schwartz’s 47 theory, actions relevant to norms encompass three concepts: the acceptance of an individual’s particular values, the belief that something important to those values is under threat, and the belief that a person’s behavior can help alleviate the threat and restore value, which are known as personal norms. Schwartz 48 classifies values into three types: biospheric, altruistic, and egoistic. Beliefs consist of new ecological paradigm (EP), awareness of consequences (AC), and ascription of responsibility (AR), which, in combination, affect behavioral intention.

The VBN theory predicts sustainable behaviors in various settings. It has been extensively applied to explain pro-environmental behaviors in various contexts such as residential energy savings 49 , sustainable tourism 50 , climate-conserving behaviors 51 , environmentally friendly cruise 52 , sustainable tourism and hospitality 53 , and reducing air pollution in road transportation 54 . Moreover, the VBN theory has been expanded by the incorporation of supplementary variables, including SN and perceived behavioral control 26 , emotion 55 , satisfaction, trust, and frequency of prior conduct 37 . The initial model encompassed a solitary dimension of norms, specifically personal norms. Kim et al. 56 argue that in order to achieve a thorough understanding of norms, it is necessary to expand personal norms in conjunction with social norms (SN). This entails considering both internal and exterior norms. The model proposed by Han et al. 37 received empirical support for trust. In order to address the well-recognized disparity between intentions and behaviors, the current study (Fig.  1 ) employed trust in recycling (TR) as a variable associated with intentions to engage in sustainable fashion consumption (SCI) and sustainable consumer behavior (SCB). Additionally, the study incorporated SN alongside intrinsic personal norms.

figure 1

Conceptual framework.

Hypothesis development

Antecedents of new ecological paradigm (ep).

Dunlap et al. 57 developed the EP, which embraces the idea that humans are an integral part of nature, to explore individuals’ environmental attitudes. Biospheric values (BV) are key factors shaping individuals’ worldviews, particularly in relation to their interest in nature and the environment. The adoption of BV is associated with a greater concern for the environment, emphasizing the central role of environmental values in decision-making and shaping behavior. Similarly, Onel and Mukherjee 23 found that BV positively impacted a new ecological paradigm. Ünal et al. 58 explored the relationship between BV and environmental protection, demonstrating that higher levels of BV are associated with increased concern for the environment. Finally, Ye and Tkaczynski 59 argued that BV is a key driver of engagement with EP, with higher levels of BV corresponding to greater involvement in environmental issues. Therefore, we put forward the following hypothesis:

H 1 . Biosphere value is positively associated with the new ecological paradigm.

Altruistic values (AV) refer to a set of ethical principles that prioritize the well-being and interests of others. Altruistic individuals often act in ways that benefit others without expecting anything in return, and may sacrifice their own interests or desires for the greater good. AV are closely linked to the preservation of the social ecology, as noted by Vuorio et al. 60 . By contrast, egoistic value (EV) suggests that environmental issues harm individuals, causing them to prioritize their property, power, and status, and think more about their own resource needs. Previous studies on the correlation between egoistic values and EP have yielded conflicting results. While some studies suggest a negative correlation between EV and EP 61 , Kim’s study on effective hotel environmental management found that only AV were significantly associated with EP, whereas other values did not show significant 62 . In a recent study in Malaysia, Chua et al. 63 showed that all three values were significant factors of EP, with BV having a medium effect, and EV and AV having small effects. Despite limited robust evidence of the link between AV and EP, considering the cultural and social differences in the samples, it is expected that those values have direct effects on EP. Therefore, the following hypotheses are formulated:

H 2 . Altruistic value is positively associated with the new ecological paradigm.

H 3 . Egoistic value is positively associated with the new ecological paradigm.

Enablers of awareness of consequences (AC)

AC refers to an individual’s understanding of the potential outcomes or effects that may result from their actions or decisions. It involves recognizing the impact of one’s behavior on oneself, others, and the environment. In the context of environmental issues, AC relates to an individual’s understanding of how their actions may affect the natural world and the ecosystems that sustain it. Previous studies have established a causal relationship between EP and AC, indicating that individuals with greater knowledge of current environmental issues tend to be more aware of the impacts of their actions and behaviors. Campos-Soria et al. 64 and Liobikien and Poškus 65 supported this correlation, highlighting its positive effect on individuals’ awareness of the consequences of their actions. Han et al. 66 suggested that an EP can increase people’s awareness of the impact of their actions, while Landon et al. 50 proposed that personal responsibility can be improved by promoting awareness of this new environmental perspective. Thus, we propose the following hypothesis:

H 4 . New ecological paradigm is positively associated with the awareness of the consequences.

Enablers of ascription of responsibility (AR)

AR refers to assigning or attributing responsibility for an action or outcome to a particular person or group. This can include both the individual responsibility of a person for their actions, and the responsibility of larger groups or institutions for their impact on society and the environment. According to Ogiemwonyi et al. 67 &Yang et al. 68 , individuals perceive a feeling of involvement in the preservation of the environment and hold the conviction that they can actively contribute to environmental well-being through the adoption of sustainable practices. When people understand how their actions negatively affect the environment, and take steps to minimize or mitigate that impact, they demonstrate a sense of responsibility associated with personal norms (PN) and AR, as noted by Landon and Boley 50 and Ghazali et al. 69 . Scholars 58 , 70 confirmed this relationship, suggesting that awareness of the consequences of one’s actions positively influences AR. These findings are further supported by Ghazali et al. 69 , who found that awareness of consequences improves the sense of responsibility among both Malaysian and Chinese individuals. Thus, it can be concluded that a greater awareness of the environmental impact of one’s behavior and actions can lead to a stronger sense of responsibility. Thus, we postulated the following hypothesis:

H 5 . Awareness of the consequences is positively associated with AR.

Antecedents of personal norms

PN refers to internalized beliefs and expectations about how one should behave in a given situation. These norms are self-regulatory in nature and are often shaped by personal values and moral standards. They influence behavior by creating a sense of obligation or duty to act in a certain way, even when external pressures or incentives are absent. PN is thought to be particularly important in the context of pro-environmental behaviors, as it can motivate individuals to act in ways that align with their environmental values, even when it may not be socially or economically advantageous to do so. According to the VBN theory, beliefs are directly linked to individual norms. Thus, people who hold their usual beliefs about ecological well-being are more likely to develop PN for pro-environmental behavior 71 . Using the VBN framework, previous research explored the direct association between EP and PN. Chua et al. 63 observed the positive effect of EP on PN in a sample of paddy farmers. Similarly, Yeboah and Kaplowitz 72 found a positive and significant effect of EP on PN among students, teachers, and employees at Michigan State University. Hence, the hypothesis is as follows:

H 6 . New ecological paradigm is positively associated with the personal norms.

Individuals who are aware of the negative consequences of not performing altruistic acts have a stronger sense of moral obligation, and are more likely to activate PN to engage in such behaviors. AC is responsible for PN 73 . Understanding the impact of one’s actions on the environment can help individuals take steps to reduce their negative impacts and promote a sense of responsibility, ultimately leading to an increase in PN 50 , 67 . Gkargkavouzi et al. 74 suggested that AC effectively promotes personal norms to take necessary action to safeguard the climate. Similarly, Zhang et al. 22 stated that AC significantly influenced PN engagement in environment-friendly farming practices. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 7 . Awareness of the consequences is positively associated with PN.

When individuals experience a stronger sense of personal responsibility, they feel a moral obligation to act. AR refers to assigning responsibility to one’s behavior or actions 69 . Studies show that ascribing responsibility leads to the development of personal norms 75 . If a person recognizes that they have done something wrong, they feel a greater moral obligation to stop or reduce the harm caused 69 . Pro-environmental studies have supported this hypothesis. For instance, Ünal et al. 58 found that individuals who recognize their ability to reduce the negative consequences of their actions feel a moral obligation to support that behavior. Similarly, Bronfman et al. 70 and Rezvani et al. 76 argued that greater AR increases PN. Recent studies 77 , 78 on conservation behavior in organizations have demonstrated that AR is the strongest predictor of PN. The hypothesis is as follows:

H 8 . AR is positively associated with PN.

Enablers of sustainable fashion consumption intention

Schwartz 79 defines PN as the extent to which an individual feels morally obliged to perform a particular action. Sia and Jose 80 contend that PN is a key driver of norm-driven pro-environmental behavior and that a stronger sense of personal moral norms can lead to greater engagement in environment-friendly behavior. Han 81 and Yang et al. 77 found that PN predicts intentions for environmentally responsible behavior in various groups. Additionally, Ünal et al. 58 suggest that individuals' intentions to engage in eco-friendly actions increase when they feel a strong sense of obligation. This argument implies that PN leads to planned, environmentally conscious behaviors. Hwang et al. 82 also revealed that moral obligation has a favorable and substantial effect on the purchase intentions of organic, fair trade, and recycled clothing products. With growing concerns about environmental damage and social inequality in the fashion industry, consumers' personal values have shifted from being self-centered to society-centered 83 . Joanes 16 discovered a positive and substantial relationship between PN and the intention to minimize personal clothing consumption. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 9 . PN is positively linked with the intention to engage in SCI.

SN refer to shared beliefs about proper behavior within a community regarding one’s response to a situation 84 . Various studies have shown that SN have a positive impact on different behavioral domains related to sustainable behavior 84 . In the context of green consumerism, SN have been found to positively influence consumers’ behavioral intentions to buy green goods and services 26 . Additionally, an individual’s SN have been found to impact their word-of-mouth purchasing intention and intention to sacrifice 52 . Doran and Larsen 85 found that people are more likely to engage in pro-environmental behavior when they receive messages indicating that people around them are doing the same things. Moreover, Borusiak and Szymkowiak 5 explained that individuals usually feel pressured to engage in specific behaviors by the people around them. Observing others’ contributions to a common cause, such as environmental preservation, can enhance trust in cooperative intentions, strengthen beliefs about achieving desired outcomes, and increase the willingness to contribute to environmental preservation. Recently, Zahid et al. 30 revealed a positive relationship between SN and SCI in the case of second-hand clothing in China, while Zhang et al. 29 found the same relationships in the case of clothing disposal behavior in China. Yeap et al. 27 found that perceived norms (external influence) have positive influence on the intention to adopt second hand clothes in Malaysian perspectives. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 10 : There is a positive relationship between SN and SCI.

Trust is a belief that has been shown to have a positive relationship with green purchasing intention, as established by some authors 86 . Studies indicate that ethical cues can influence consumer opinions about low-performing products 87 , and trust in ethical businesses can influence green buying intentions, while greenwashing can damage consumer trust and reduce their green buying intentions 88 . Thus, companies that want to increase consumers’ green buying intentions should avoid actions that create green skepticism, focus on developing strong relationships with consumers, and build trust in green practices. Therefore, the following hypothesis is proposed:

H 11 : There is a positive relationship between TR and SCI.

Enfeeblers of Sustainable consumption behavior (SCB)

SCB refers to actions taken by individuals or groups to reduce their negative impacts on the environment and promote sustainable development. This involves making conscious and informed choices when purchasing goods and services, and considering the environmental and social impacts of these choices 89 . Behavioral intention is an important predictor of actual behavior, as people who intend to participate in green behavior are more likely to follow these actions 90 . Gkargkavouzi et al. 74 revealed that behavioral intention is a significant factor in voluntary actions aimed at mitigating the effects of climate change among Greek respondents. Additionally, taking responsibility for reducing energy consumption in households has been shown to promote energy conservation behaviors in households 91 . The growing need for green products and services suggests that individuals are increasingly adopting environmentally conscious behaviors 92 . Therefore, we hypothesize that as PN supporting green behavior strengthens, individuals are more likely to participate in environmentally conscious actions.

H 12 : SCI is significantly and positively linked with SCB.

Green trust refers to individuals’ “willingness to depend on a product or service based on the belief or expectations resulting from its credibility, benevolence, and environmental performance” 93 . A lack of trust can create skepticism, which may negatively affect purchase intention 94 . While most studies have focused on trust as an antecedent of purchase intention 95 , only a few have considered it as a predictor of purchase behavior. Nuttavuthisit and Thøgersen 96 found that green trust influences green consumption, and Taufique et al. 97 observed that consumers’ trust in green products leads to pro-environmental consumer behavior. Several recent studies 98 , 99 , 100 have investigated consumer behavior towards various green products and services. Thus, the following hypothesis is postulated:

H 13 : TR is positively linked with the SCB.

Moderation of TR

Trust, which refers to consumer beliefs and expectations regarding the reliability, capability, and goodwill of both green products and their producers, leads to the intention to trust the companies and products involved 101 . Individuals pursue sustainable lifestyles not only because of their ecological awareness and comprehension, but also the personal benefits or contentment derived from the products or services they consume 101 . In this study, TR is indicated for second-hand clothes based on its credibility in meeting expectations, usability of clothes, and hygiene issues. Many people want to wear clothes for long periods. Therefore, consumers may feel a lack of trust in the durability of fashion products, as they have already been used for a while. According to Harris and Hagger 102 , the intention to act does not necessarily mean being able to do so. Studies show that consumers’ lack of trust can be a major barrier to purchasing organic products 96 . According to Sultan et al. 103 and Zheng et al. 104 , trust plays a moderating role in addressing intention-behavior gaps. Therefore, we propose the following hypothesis:

H M1 : TR positively moderates the link between SCI and SCB.

All associations hypothesized above are presented in Fig.  1 below:

Materials and methods

Research design.

The research followed a cross-sectional design in which an online survey was conducted. This approach differs from that of a longitudinal study that collects data repeatedly within a specific timeframe. This study is quantitative and utilizes a pre-existing research framework. The following sections delve more deeply into the techniques employed in this study.

Population and sample

The target population was Chinese adults who were more than 18 years old and could participate in the survey without their guardians’ permission. We obtained signed informed consent forms through a questionnaire. Using the G-power 3.1 tool with 10 different predictors, a power of 0.80 and an effect size of 0.15 were utilized to arrive at an estimate for the sample size. The minimum number of samples required to perform an analysis with sufficient power was 118 105 . However, Hair et al. 106 recommend that partial least squares structural equation modelling (PLS-SEM) should use at least 200 samples. To avoid restrictions of a small sample size, this study intended to obtain data from more than 300 Chinese adults.

Data collection procedure

Present research created an electronic questionnaire to collect empirical data by applying measurement scale items from previous studies. In addition, this study used a back-translation technique to ensure that the survey was accurate. First, the research questionnaires were carefully examined using English. Second, investigators obtained help from professional experts who were used to the research and spoke both English and Chinese to translate it into Chinese. Third, two professional translators who spoke English and Chinese blindly translated the Chinese questionnaire back into English. Fourth, the quality of the translations was assessed by comparing the two versions. In the case of dispersion, researchers and translators worked to find solutions. Finally, the questionnaire was pretested to determine its accuracy. The issuance and completion of the questionnaires were closely supervised to ascertain the validity and well-organized gathering of the data. Researchers sent 32 questionnaires and collected them from a pretest sample. The pre-test findings confirmed the preliminary validity and reliability of the items used.

The survey collecting data took place in China, since the participants of the research were from different parts of China; the empirical data was obtained using the online survey method. The human research ethics committee of Nanfang College Guangzhou approved this study (Nanfang-2023–1209). This study has been performed in accordance with the Declaration of Helsinki. Written informed consent for participation was obtained from respondents who participated in the survey. Respondents were selected using convenience sampling method. All respondents were informed that the study focused on their sustainable fashion consumption (buying, swapping, or donating second hand clothes). Data was collected between 20 th November 2022 to 27 th January 2023, and downloaded from the website 28th th January 2023. The questionnaire was circulated using social media platforms, primarily through the WJX.cn website, and 979 valid responses were received.

Measurement instruments

The questionnaire consisted of two main sections: A and B. Section A comprised the demographic information of respondents (eight questions), whereas all related 54 questions were incorporated in section B. The study used pre-literature for its scale after fitting it into the context, with modification (rewording) and alternation, where necessary. Four items of BV and AV and five items of EV were extracted from Han et al. 107 . Five items each for the contracts SN, TR, and SCB were adopted from Kim et al. 108 , Chen 93 , and Attiq et al. 109 , respectively. The EP construct (five items) was adapted from López-Mosquera and Sánchez 110 , while the five items of AC originated from López-Mosquera and Sánchez 110 and Choi et al. 111 . The study followed López-Mosquera and Sánchez 110 and Ünal et al. 58 for taking the items (5) of AR. The items (5) of PN were sourced from Choi et al. 111 and Ünal et al. 58 . The TR (five items) was obtained from Chen 93 , and the SCI constructs (five items) were extracted from 5 . The questionnaire had closed-ended items that evaluated 11 constructs from previous studies using a seven-point Likert scale ranging from 1: strongly disagree to 7: strongly agree. A complete questionnaire has been submitted to this manuscript as supporting material— S1. Survey Instrument.

Common method bias

To determine the impact of common method bias (CMB) and propose remedies, the study questions were meticulously crafted, and respondents were assured that there were no right or wrong answers, and their responses would remain anonymous 112 . Harman’s single-factor test was used as a diagnostic tool to determine the influence of common method bias. The single factor was 32.507%, which was less than the prescribed limit of 50% in Harman’s one-factor test. This proves that the CMB had no significant effect on this study. Moreover, an examination of CMB involved an assessment of the full collinearity of all constructs, as recommended by Kock 113 . All the study structures were regressed on the common variance and variance inflation factors (VIF) values shown in Table 1 . There was no presence of bias in the data from a single source because all VIF values were lower than 3.3.

Multivariate normality

Using appropriate data analysis techniques to check multivariate normality is crucial. This study estimated multivariate normality using an online Web Power tool 114 . The results of the multivariate normality test revealed that the p values for Mardia’s multivariate skewness (z = 2209.93) and kurtosis (z = 37.85) were below 0.05, indicating non-normality. Thus, to accommodate non-normal data, this study uses PLS-SEM. Structural equation modelling approach provides better estimates than regression for mediation and moderation 115 . PLS-SEM is a satisfactory approach for evaluating complex frameworks involving moderating relationships 106 . Therefore, PLS-SEM was employed with the Smart-PLS 4.0.

Data analysis method

The analysis of this research followed two stages. First, the measurement model was quantified to determine validity and reliability. In the later phase, structural equation modeling was used to elaborate the connection between the predictor and latent variables, including the mediation and moderation effects. It is widely accepted that structural equation modeling provides better estimates than regression when executing mediation and moderation 115 . Therefore, this research applied structural equation modeling, specifically PLS-SEM, using Smart-PLS 4.0, which is regarded as the best choice because of its effectiveness in evaluating complex frameworks involving moderation effects 106 .

Ethics approval

The human research ethics committee of Nanfang College Guangzhou approved this study (Nanfang-2022-1009). This study has been performed in accordance with the Declaration of Helsinki.

Informed consent

Written informed consent for participation was obtained from respondents who participated in the survey.

Respondents profile

The provided demographic Table 2 presents information on the gender, age group, education level, marital status, employment status, and clothing purchasing habits of 979 individuals. The sample was evenly divided into male (49.7%) and female (50.3%) participants. Most participants had a bachelor’s degree or below (93.0%), with only 11.1% having a postgraduate degree. In terms of age, the sample was evenly distributed across different age groups, with the largest groups being those aged 26–35 years (28.1%) and 36–45 years (29.3%). Most participants were married (61.5%) and employed full-time (41.3%), with 13.2% unemployed and 3.7% retired. Regarding clothing purchasing habits, most participants purchased new clothes one to two times per month (34.8%), and spent less than RMB1500 per month on clothing (39.7%).

The study’s reliability and validity were examined by assessing the internal consistency of the measurement items as well as the composite reliability and average variance extracted (Table 3 ). The results indicate high levels of internal consistency, with Cronbach’s alpha ranging from 0.892 to 0.933 for each variable. The composite reliability values ranged from 0.896 to 0.947, indicating a high degree of construct reliability. The average variance extracted values ranged from 0.711 to 0.788, indicating that the measures accounted for a substantial proportion of the variance in each construct. The variance inflation factor values were all below the recommended threshold of 2.5, indicating no multicollinearity issues. Therefore, the measures demonstrated good reliability and validity, suggesting that the results are credible and robust.

After confirming reliability and discriminant validity, we applied both Fornell and Lacker’s criterion and Heterotrait-Monotrait (HTMT) ratio (Table 4 ; Fig.  2 ). The Fornell–Larcker criterion shows the correlation between constructs and the amount of variance shared among them. Diagonal values represent the square root of the average variance extracted (AVE) for each construct. Values above the diagonal represent the correlation between constructs, whereas those below the diagonal represent the AVE for each construct. All diagonal values exceed 0.5, indicating acceptable convergent validity. The off-diagonal values were generally lower, suggesting good discriminant validity. The standard value of the HTMT is less than 0.90, and values exceeding this limit indicate low discriminant validity 116 . All values in the HTMT matrix are below the threshold value (i.e., 0.90) confirming a high level of discriminant validity. However, all cross-loadings remained greater than 0.5, as shown (Appendix 1 ). Overall, the analysis suggests that the measures have adequate reliability and validity for the constructs studied.

figure 2

Heterotrait–monotrait ratio (HTMT) matrix.

The results (as presented in Table 5 ; Fig.  3 ) reveal that BV (β = 0.193, t = 5.091, p < 0.01), AV (β = 0.163, t = 4.378, p < 0.01) and EV (β = 0.204, t = 5.608, p < 0.01) influenced significantly on EP. The link between EP and AC was identified as positive (β = 0.265, t = 7.998, p < 0.01), signifying the positive effect of EP on AC. Moreover, AC had a positive significant influence on AR (β = 0.342, t = 10.591, p < 0.01). EP (β = 0.130, t = 3.712, p < 0.01), AC (β = 0.294, t = 7.963, p < 0.01) and AR (β = 0.231, t = 6.530, p < 0.01) affected positively on PN. Additionally, PN (β = 0.228, t = 6.645, p < 0.01), SN (β = 0.207, t = 6.170, p < 0.01) and TR (β = 0.364, t = 10.777, p < 0.01) demonstrated a positive relation on SCI. SCI (β = 0.374, t = 11.140, p < 0.01) and TR (β = 0.333, t = 9.759, p < 0.01) had significant positive effects on SCB. Similarly, the study finds a statistically insignificant moderation role of TR (β = , t = − 0.056, t = 2.071, p < 0.05) within the connection between SCI and SCB (Fig.  4 ). Although the p value (0.019) falls within the 5% level of significance, the hypothesis is rejected as it presents the opposite relationship. Therefore, this study found that hypotheses (H1–13) were validated at the 1% level of significance, and hypothesis (H M1 ) was rejected (Table 5 ).

figure 3

Measurement model.

figure 4

Moderation of trust in recycling.

Moreover, the outcome (Table 6 ) of the study found that BV, AV, and EV had indirect relationships with AC and PN, and EP has the same with AR, PN, and SCI. Likewise, AC is indirectly linked with PN and SCI, while AR is with SCI. The constructs PN, SN, and TR are indirectly related on the SCB.

This study investigated the relationship between values, attitudes, and sustainable fashion consumption behavior. It proposed 14 hypotheses based on the extended VBN theory, 13 of which were confirmed by empirical investigation. The exogenous constructs in the model were found to have a significant impact on the endogenous construct, with an explanatory power of 42.3% for SCB, indicating a good fit between the model and the investigation. The following discussion provides details of the relationships identified in this study.

The finding that Biospheric, Altruistic, and Egoistic values had a significant influence on the New Ecological Paradigm (NEP) is consistent with previous research 63 that highlights the importance of values in shaping environmental attitudes and behavior (H1–3). The finding that these values significantly influence the New Ecological Paradigm suggests that individuals who hold these values are more likely to adopt an environmentalist perspective and engage in sustainable behaviors. The results also suggest that individuals who hold values that prioritize the environment, personal and collective well-being, and personal growth, are more likely to adopt a new ecological paradigm that views humans as part of the ecosystem and emphasizes the importance of protecting the natural environment.

The present study revealed that the New Ecological Paradigm significantly influences individuals’ Awareness of Consequences (H4), indicating that people who hold environmental concerns and beliefs tend to be more aware of the environmental consequences of their actions. These findings are consistent with previous research showing that the New Ecological Paradigm is an essential predictor of individuals’ AC 50 . Han et al. 66 suggest that individuals who hold a new ecological paradigm perspective are more likely to be aware of the environmental consequences of their actions. This new ecological paradigm represents an underlying belief system that recognizes the interdependence between humans and the natural environment. Therefore, it can be assumed that individuals with a new ecological paradigm perspective are more likely to be conscious of the consequences of their actions on the environment. Consequently, they may be more motivated to engage in SCB to reduce their environmental impact.

Furthermore, the finding that awareness of consequences had a positive and significant influence on AR (H5) supports previous research 58 , 69 that has suggested that individuals who are more aware of the consequences of their actions are more likely to feel responsible for their impact on the environment. This finding aligns with Value-Belief-Norm theory, which proposes that individuals who are aware of ecological consequences accept responsibility for their actions. In this study, the relationship between awareness of consequences and AR may be explained by the fact that individuals who are more aware of the consequences of their actions are more likely to feel a sense of responsibility for their impact on the environment. This finding has implications for interventions aimed at promoting sustainable fashion consumption, as it suggests that increasing awareness of the consequences of unsustainable fashion practices may help individuals develop a stronger sense of responsibility for their actions, and motivate them to engage in more sustainable fashion consumption behaviors.

Moreover, this study identified a positive and significant relationship between EP, AC, AR, and PN (H6–8), consistent with previous studies 22 , 63 , 77 , 78 . This implies that individuals who strongly believe in the need for ecological conservation and are aware of the consequences of their actions towards the environment are more likely to develop a sense of responsibility for their actions. They are more likely to form a PN that prioritizes sustainable fashion consumption, which could result in behavioral changes towards more sustainable fashion choices. Individuals who internalize sustainable values and beliefs are more likely to form PN that prioritize sustainable fashion consumption, leading to changes in their behavior. This finding suggests that interventions aimed at promoting sustainable fashion consumption should focus on developing PN that prioritize the environment and sustainability.

Additionally, the results of this study suggest that PN, SN, and TR have positive effects on SCI (H9–11). This is important because it indicates that personal influence, social influence, and TR motivate individuals to adopt SCB. SN refers to shared beliefs and behaviors within a society or a particular group. The positive effect of social norms on SCI implies that individuals are more likely to engage in SCB when they perceive such behaviors as socially accepted and valued. This finding is consistent with previous research 84 . Yeap et al. 27 , Zahid et al. 30 , Zhang et al. 22 demonstrating the important role of SN in shaping pro-environmental behaviors. TR, on the other hand, refers to an individual’s confidence in the effectiveness and efficiency of recycling programs. The positive effect of TR on SCI suggests that individuals who trust recycling programmes are more likely to engage in SCB. This finding is particularly relevant 81 in the context of sustainable fashion consumption, as it suggests that individuals in TR programs may be more likely to engage in behaviors such as recycling clothes or purchasing clothes made from recycled materials. Also, this is true for renting clothes in case of circular fashion conducted by Shrivastava et al. 117 .

Finally, this study found that SCI and TR were significant predictors of SCB (H12–13). This result suggests that individuals who have a higher intention to consume sustainability and TR are more likely to engage in SCB, such as buying, swapping, or donating second-hand clothes. The positive effect of SCI on SCB suggests that individuals with a strong intention to engage in sustainable fashion consumption are more likely to engage in such behaviors. This finding is consistent with previous research 86 demonstrating the important role of intention in predicting pro-environmental behaviors. However, the study found that TR did not moderate the relationship between SCI and SCB, contrary to the hypothesized relationship (H M1 ) and the findings of Sultan et al. 103 .

Implications of the study

Theoretical implications.

This study makes several theoretical contributions to the field of sustainable fashion consumption. First, it identifies several factors that influence sustainable fashion consumption behavior, including BV, AV, and EV, as well as AC, AR, PN, SN, and TR. This provides a comprehensive understanding of the factors that motivate individuals to engage in SCB, which can inform the development of interventions aimed at promoting such behaviors. Second, it used bi-dimensional norms, such as PN and SN, in the VBN frameworks, and established that both are predictors of SCB. Thus, this study contributes to the literature on the role of SN in promoting pro-environmental behavior. The finding that SN has a positive effect on SCI suggests that interventions aimed at increasing SN to support sustainable fashion consumption may be effective in promoting SCB.

Third, this study identified the importance of SCI and TR as predictors of SCB. This highlights the importance of considering not only individuals’ values and beliefs, but also their perceptions of the effectiveness and efficiency of recycling programs in promoting SCB. Finally, this study contributes to the literature on the intention-behavior gap in SCB. Many respondents are highly willing to purchase, but ultimately do not purchase pro-environmental products, which is referred to as the intention-behavior gap. Although these findings suggest that SCI and TR are significant predictors of SCB, there is no evidence that TR is a moderator. This result will encourage academia to conduct further research on the intention-behavior gap in SCB in another cultural context.

Practical implications

The results of this study have important practical implications for the promotion of SCB. First, the results suggest that interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus on fostering values that prioritize the environment, personal and collective well-being, and personal growth. For example, campaigns highlighting the environmental and social benefits of SFC may appeal to individuals who hold these values. Furthermore, the findings imply that interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus not only on increasing awareness of the consequences of unsustainable fashion consumption but also on promoting a sense of responsibility for one’s actions. Such interventions could include educating individuals on the environmental impact of their fashion choices and encouraging them to take responsibility for their actions towards the environment to adopt a new ecological paradigm. This can be achieved through educational campaigns and by creating a sustainable fashion culture that highlights the importance of SCB. These interventions can be implemented through various channels, such as social media campaigns, educational programs, and fashion industry initiatives that promote SFC.

Second, this study emphasizes the importance of creating social norms that support SFC., which can be achieved through initiatives such as sustainable fashion events, sustainable fashion collaborations, and sustainable fashion blogs. By creating a sustainable fashion community that promotes SCB, individuals are more likely to adopt this behavior. Third, this study highlights the importance of increasing TR, which is a significant predictor of SCB and has important implications for policymakers and marketers seeking to promote SFC. This can be achieved through initiatives that increase awareness about the importance of recycling and highlight the benefits of recycling, such as reduced waste and increased resource efficiency. Additionally, initiatives that increase access to recycling facilities and make recycling more convenient can increase TR and promote SCB.

Finally, this study provides important insights into the intention-behavior gap in SCB. These findings suggest that SCI and TR are significant predictors of SCB. Therefore, interventions aimed at promoting SFC should focus on increasing individuals’ SCI and TR to close the intention-behavior gap and encourage SCB.

This study highlights the significant roles played by values, attitudes, and norms in shaping SCB among individuals. These findings suggest that individual values, including BV, AV, and EV, significantly influence EP, which positively affects AC. This awareness leads to a greater sense of responsibility toward the environment, which, in turn, positively influences SCB. This study also suggests that PN plays a vital role in shaping SCB, and creating an environment where SFC is considered normal, to encourage more individuals to adopt SCB. Moreover, this study emphasizes the importance of increasing TR to promote SCB. The findings have significant implications for policymakers and businesses aiming to promote SFC and create a more sustainable fashion industry.

This study has limitations worth noting. Firstly, it exclusively examined individual-level factors influencing SCB and did not consider broader societal influences like policies and regulations that might impact SCB. Future research should explore the interplay between individual and societal factors to achieve a more comprehensive understanding of SCB. Another limitation is the study's neglect of other factors like price, availability, and convenience that can affect SCB. While values, beliefs, and norms are important predictors of behavior, practical factors also play a role in individuals' engagement in SFC. Subsequent research could assess the relative influence of these practical factors in addition to values, attitudes, and norms. Additionally, the study concentrated on SCB without examining the influence of sustainable fashion production practices. Sustainable production practices, including the use of sustainable materials, waste reduction, and fair labor practices, are crucial for overall sustainable fashion. Future research should explore the factors affecting these production practices and their relationship with consumption.

Furthermore, the study relied on self-reported SCB measures, potentially subject to social desirability bias, wherein participants might have overreported SCB to appear more socially responsible. Future research could employ objective measures, like tracking actual purchasing and disposal behaviors. The study used a cross-sectional design, limiting its ability to establish causality between the variables studied. Future research could utilize longitudinal or experimental designs to investigate causal relationships between variables. Finally, the present study adopted the convenience sampling method, which might trigger common method biases, even though precautions were taken during the study. Advanced research could consider employing other sampling techniques, such as probability sampling, to mitigate any potential biases and ensure more accurate results.

Data availability

The original contributions presented in the study are included in the article/Research Data, further inquiries can be directed to the corresponding author/s.

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This study is supported via funding from Nanfang College Guangzhou (2022 School-level Research Project. No. 2022XK06), Fund received by: Yingxiu Hong. The funders had no role in study design, data collection and analysis, decision to publish, or preparation of the manuscript.

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Conceptualization: Y.H., A.A.M., Q.Y., M.M. Formal analysis: A.A.M. Methodology: Y.H., Q.Y., M.M. Writing—original draft: Y.H., Q.Y. Writing—review and editing: A.A.M., M.M.

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Hong, Y., Al Mamun, A., Yang, Q. et al. Predicting sustainable fashion consumption intentions and practices. Sci Rep 14 , 1706 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-52215-z

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Sustainable and Ethical Fashion Consumption: the role of Consumer Attitude and Behaviour

Profile image of Oladayo  Sadiku

Global demand for improved corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the fashion industry has created many challenges and opportunities for companies wishing to integrate the principles of sustainability into their business strategies. Since businesses operate for a profit, investments towards sustainability can only return shareholder value if the consumers are rewarding it. There is, however, a vacuum in empirical knowledge regarding the role of consumer attitude and behaviour in the sustainable and ethical consumption of fashion. This qualitative and quantitative study contributes to the knowledge database using experimental research based on survey methods and statistical analyses. A questionnaire survey was conducted in Hamburg with 100 respondents made up of an equal number of HSBA and non-HSBA students. The questions were aimed at gaining insight into respondents’ attitudes towards ethical issues and resulting behaviour before, during and after the purchase of clothing. Results show that eco-labelling of clothing only influences the buying decisions of consumers who already possess a positive attitude towards sustainability. It was revealed that many consumers still harbour scepticism on the real motives of fashion companies towards sustainability. Price and quality are more important factors for purchase decisions than ethicality. Many Consumers have little information on where to buy eco-clothes. Many consumers today are aware of sustainability concepts, but the awareness still has little bearing on their purchase behaviour. The results are however limited by the number of respondents, ethnography and age groups. The outcome of this report would be invaluable for market planning and investment decisions towards sustainability projects in the fashion industry.

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80 Fashion Sustainability Research Topics

FacebookXEmailWhatsAppRedditPinterestLinkedInFor students embarking on the journey of academic research, selecting pertinent and engaging research topics is the foundational step toward a successful thesis or dissertation in the realm of Fashion Sustainability. Aiming to shed light on the intricate dynamics of the fashion industry’s environmental and social impact, research topics become crucial conduits for understanding, analysis, […]

Fashion Sustainability Research Topics

For students embarking on the journey of academic research, selecting pertinent and engaging research topics is the foundational step toward a successful thesis or dissertation in the realm of Fashion Sustainability. Aiming to shed light on the intricate dynamics of the fashion industry’s environmental and social impact, research topics become crucial conduits for understanding, analysis, and potential transformation. Whether at the undergraduate, master’s, or doctoral level, identifying the right research topic is akin to setting the sails for a fruitful academic exploration into the world of sustainable fashion. This guide endeavors to provide a diverse spectrum of research topics within Fashion Sustainability, tailored to different academic levels, to guide and inspire prospective researchers in their scholarly endeavors.

Fashion Sustainability also known as “sustainable fashion,” “ethical fashion,” and “eco-friendly fashion”, are the compass guiding students venturing into the expansive domain of Fashion Sustainability—a vital discourse addressing the environmental, ethical, and economic facets of the fashion industry. As an academic field, Fashion Sustainability delves into the responsible and ethical practices within fashion production, consumption, and disposal.

A List Of Potential Research Topics In Fashion Sustainability:

  • Assessing the effectiveness of sustainable fashion education in design schools and its impact on future designers.
  • Assessing the effectiveness of fashion sustainability education at the primary and secondary levels.
  • Examining the relationship between fashion and sustainable tourism.
  • Examining the role of technology in enhancing transparency in fashion supply chains.
  • Investigating the intersection of fashion and eco-friendly transportation.
  • Investigating the ethics of luxury fashion brands in relation to sustainability.
  • A review of consumer education and awareness programs for promoting sustainable fashion choices.
  • Evaluating the impact of COVID-19 on fashion sustainability initiatives in emerging economies.
  • Analyzing the role of UK fashion events and exhibitions in promoting sustainable practices.
  • Analyzing the circular fashion initiatives and their implementation within the UK market.
  • Analyzing the social and environmental implications of “Made in” labels in fashion.
  • A comprehensive review of methodologies and metrics for measuring sustainability in the fashion industry.
  • Investigating the impact of Brexit on sustainable fashion practices and trade relations in the UK.
  • Examining the labor conditions and workers’ rights in the global fashion supply chain.
  • Analyzing the policy framework and its impact on sustainable fashion adoption in the UK.
  • Analyzing the potential of urban farming in sustainable fashion production.
  • Assessing the potential of fashion resale and second-hand markets in reducing waste.
  • Examining the psychology of conspicuous consumption and its effects on sustainable fashion.
  • Exploring the synergies between fashion retailing and sustainable practices for a more environmentally conscious industry.
  • Analyzing the role of sustainable materials in reducing the carbon footprint of clothing production.
  • Examining the circular economy model in high-end luxury fashion brands.
  • Exploring innovative sustainable materials and manufacturing processes in the fashion industry post-COVID.
  • Assessing the role of fashion in promoting awareness and action on climate change.
  • Examining the consumer behavior and attitudes towards sustainable fashion in urban settings.
  • Assessing the impact of cultural diversity and inclusion in fashion sustainability efforts.
  • Evaluating the eco-labeling practices in the fashion industry and their influence on consumer choices.
  • Investigating consumer perceptions and attitudes towards sustainable fashion in the UK.
  • Assessing the role of education and awareness campaigns in promoting sustainable fashion choices in the UK.
  • Investigating the environmental impact of fast fashion supply chains on global ecosystems.
  • Analyzing the impact of innovative textiles and materials on fashion sustainability.
  • Examining the influence of celebrity endorsements on the perception of sustainable fashion.
  • Evaluating the sustainability practices of major fashion retailers in the UK and their effects on consumer behavior.
  • Assessing the effectiveness of sustainability-driven marketing strategies in the post-pandemic fashion consumer market.
  • Analyzing the effect of changing weather patterns on fashion industry practices.
  • Evaluating the effectiveness of green marketing strategies in the fashion industry.
  • Understanding the influence of socio-economic factors on sustainable fashion consumption in the UK.
  • Evaluating the socio-economic implications of circular fashion systems in developing countries.
  • Assessing the impact of slow fashion movements on industry practices and consumer choices.
  • Examining the relationship between fashion, climate justice, and activism.
  • Analyzing the role of circular economy principles in enhancing sustainability within the post-COVID fashion industry.
  • Investigating the role of fashion tech startups in advancing sustainability in the industry.
  • Investigating the role of collaboration and partnerships in promoting sustainability within the fashion industry post-COVID.
  • Exploring the potential of regenerative agriculture in promoting sustainability within the UK fashion industry.
  • Exploring the integration of digital technologies in advancing sustainability goals in the fashion industry post-COVID.
  • Analyzing the potential of blockchain technology in ensuring transparency in fashion supply chains.
  • A review of global policy frameworks and their alignment with sustainable fashion goals.
  • Evaluating the role of fashion cooperatives in promoting fair trade and ethical production.
  • A comprehensive review of sustainable material innovation and its applications in fashion.
  • Analyzing the impact of fashion sustainability certifications on brand reputation and sales.
  • Examining the intersection of gender, identity, and sustainable fashion consumption among millennials.
  • Assessing the cultural appropriation and ethical concerns in fashion design and production.
  • Assessing the role of cultural heritage in promoting sustainable practices in the fashion industry.
  • Examining the relationship between sustainable fashion and body positivity movements.
  • A review of the effectiveness of corporate social responsibility initiatives in enhancing sustainability in fashion.
  • Assessing the role of UK fashion industry associations in advocating for sustainability.
  • Investigating the integration of green spaces and sustainable architecture in fashion retail.
  • Assessing the resilience and adaptability of sustainable fashion business models in the post-pandemic landscape.
  • Investigating the potential of upcycling in reducing textile waste and promoting fashion sustainability.
  • Evaluating the impact of textile recycling programs on fashion sustainability.
  • Legal considerations and compliance: managing business law in the realm of fashion sustainability and responsibility.
  • A review of the role of fashion influencers and celebrities in advocating for sustainability.
  • Investigating the ethical and social responsibility practices of fashion brands in a global context.
  • Assessing the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on consumer preferences for sustainable fashion.
  • Assessing the cultural significance of traditional textiles and their role in sustainable fashion.
  • Investigating the potential of clothing rental as a solution for reducing fashion waste.
  • A critical review of sustainable sourcing practices and their impact on the fashion supply chain.
  • Investigating the impact of consumer behavior shifts post-COVID on sustainable fashion choices.
  • Evaluating the circular design principles in sustainable fashion collections.
  • Evaluating the role of fashion trade shows in promoting sustainable practices.
  • Investigating the relationship between fashion advertising and consumer perceptions of sustainability.
  • Investigating the potential of 3D printing in sustainable and on-demand fashion production.
  • Examining the potential of fashion sharing platforms in reducing clothing waste.
  • Evaluating the use of innovative dyeing and printing techniques in eco-friendly fashion production.
  • Analyzing the environmental implications of vegan and cruelty-free fashion products.
  • Evaluating the adoption of green technology and innovations in sustainable fashion production.
  • Analyzing the influence of microplastics in the fashion industry and potential mitigation strategies.
  • Investigating the role of innovative packaging in reducing fashion waste and pollution.
  • Analyzing the role of social media influencers in promoting sustainable fashion.
  • Evaluating the influence of policy measures on promoting sustainable fashion practices after the COVID-19 crisis.
  • Analyzing the impact of fashion rental platforms on reducing clothing consumption and waste.

In conclusion, Fashion Sustainability beckons to scholars across academic levels, inviting them to explore a spectrum of pertinent research topics that can catalyze positive change within the fashion industry. For undergraduates, investigating “Consumer Behavior towards Sustainable Fashion Choices” can be a compelling starting point, while master’s students might delve into “Circular Economy Implementation in Fashion Supply Chains.” Doctoral researchers could undertake ambitious inquiries like “Policy Impact on Global Fashion Sustainability Initiatives.” These research topics, among others, serve as launching pads for academic growth and contribute to the ongoing dialogue of fostering a sustainable and ethical fashion paradigm.

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Dissertations / Theses on the topic 'Sustainable fashion consumption'

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Kareinen, Kira, and Sonja Kainulainen. "No fashion victims? - Motivations for sustainable fashion consumption." Thesis, Uppsala universitet, Företagsekonomiska institutionen, 2016. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-297704.

Jensen, Kajsa, and Marija Brico. "Sustainable Consumption : Measuring sustainable consumption behaviour on the Swedish fashion market." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2016. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-10197.

Zahid, Iqba Muhammad. "Sustainable Fashion Consumption and Consumer Behavior." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan, 2011. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-20715.

Pears, Katherine Elizabeth, and katherine pears@student rmit edu au. "Fashion Re-consumption; developing a sustainable fashion consumption practice influenced by sustainability and consumption theory." RMIT University. Architecture and Design, 2007. http://adt.lib.rmit.edu.au/adt/public/adt-VIT20080109.084214.

Quitalo, Luisa. "A NOMOLOGICAL NETWORK AROUND SUSTAINABLE FASHION CONSUMPTION." Miami University / OhioLINK, 2014. http://rave.ohiolink.edu/etdc/view?acc_num=miami1417171982.

JOHANSSON, ELEONOR. "Slow fashion : the answer for a sustainable fashion industry?" Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan, 2010. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-20182.

Liu, Younan, and Ye Hei. "Exploring Generation Z Consumers' Attitudes towards Sustainable Fashion and Marketing Activities regarding Sustainable Fashion." Thesis, Jönköping University, IHH, Företagsekonomi, 2021. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hj:diva-52771.

HABTE, SELASSIE SARA. "Behaviours and attitudes towards a sustainable consumption of fashion." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Institutionen Textilhögskolan, 2011. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-20673.

Vennström, Karin. "Sustainable Fashion Consumption : An Interactive System between Consumers and Institutions." Thesis, Stockholms universitet, Centrum för modevetenskap, 2012. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:su:diva-80347.

Iran, Samira [Verfasser], Ulf [Akademischer Betreuer] Schrader, Ulf [Gutachter] Schrader, and Martin [Gutachter] Müller. "Collaborative fashion consumption : a viable innovative concept of sustainable fashion consumption? / Samira Iran ; Gutachter: Ulf Schrader, Martin Müller ; Betreuer: Ulf Schrader." Berlin : Technische Universität Berlin, 2018. http://d-nb.info/1171306385/34.

Ritch, Elaine L. "Mothers' experience of sustainable fashion consumption : an existential phenomenological exploration within Edinburgh." Thesis, Queen Margaret University, 2012. https://eresearch.qmu.ac.uk/handle/20.500.12289/7310.

Elin, Pedersén, and Persson Amanda. "Do the Swedish Female Consumers Walk Their Talk? : A qualitative study exploring the Intention-Behavior gapin sustainable secondhand fashion consumption." Thesis, Jönköping University, 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hj:diva-48818.

Brantemo, Ellen, Hanna Carlstedt, and Hanna Wilhelmsson. "Sustainable conscious fashion consumption from the perspective of Generation Z : - With a focus on motivations." Thesis, Linnéuniversitetet, Institutionen för marknadsföring (MF), 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:lnu:diva-96044.

Christmann, Robin, and Erika Pasztuhov. "Making Fashion Consumption Circular : Consumers' Attitudes and Intentions Towards Clothing Rental Subscription." Thesis, Jönköping University, IHH, Företagsekonomi, 2021. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hj:diva-52681.

Thomas, Sasha. "“Where my Girls at?” : Exploring the relationship between African-American femaleconsumers and Sustainable Fashion." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2018. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21762.

Syniuk, Artem. "Sustainable apparel marketing and consumption : An analysis of Patagonia’s Worn Wear video marketing campaign." Thesis, Jönköping University, Internationella Handelshögskolan, 2021. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hj:diva-53185.

Lindberg, Matilda, and Gabriel Lindell. "”LÄMNA BASLÄGRET I BÄTTRE SKICK ÄN VI HITTADE DET” : -En kritisk diskursanalys om hållbar konsumtion." Thesis, Umeå universitet, Företagsekonomi, 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-172809.

Ahmed, Tanvir, and Waqar Ali. "Leveling Up & Closing the Gap! : Sustainable Fashion Consumers’ Journeys to New Levels of Sustainability." Thesis, Linköpings universitet, Företagsekonomi, 2021. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:liu:diva-178399.

Kvarnbäck, Klara. "Mentality of a Throw-Away Society : A study on sustainable consumption and the millennial perception of post-retail initiatives." Thesis, Umeå universitet, Företagsekonomi, 2017. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-135871.

Fritzell, Julia. "#Sustainable#Fastfashion : A qualitative study investigating social media as a channel for fast fashion companies to advertise sustainability." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2018. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-22088.

Berntsson, Sandra, and Stefanie Forsgren. "The Millennial Mind : A qualitative study on how to communicate sustainability to reduce consumption." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2018. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-14711.

Sczyka, Jana. "Circular business models in the fashion industry: A consumer perspective on renting everyday clothes." Thesis, Uppsala universitet, Institutionen för geovetenskaper, 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:uu:diva-413325.

Bojén, Lo, Jessica Janzén, and Jessica Dahlbeck. "Fast fashion-företags marknadsföring av hållbara produkter : En kvalitativ studie avgränsad till digitala kanaler." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-23450.

Thongpila, Kamolchanok. "Fabricated Future : applying the Theory of Planned Behavior to influence purchaseintention of green fashion made from recycled plastic in Thailand." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2019. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21992.

Tollin, Rebecka. "Gör det långsamt- för miljöns skull." Thesis, Malmö universitet, Fakulteten för kultur och samhälle (KS), 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-21765.

Helleday, Cornelia. "”MODE SKA VARA HÅLLBART – IT’S A F/ACT!” : En multimodal diskursanalys av F/ACT Movements Instagramkonto." Thesis, Umeå universitet, Institutionen för kultur- och medievetenskaper, 2020. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:umu:diva-179556.

Jin, Fanlv. "Chinese Consumer Willingness Towards Eco-Conscious Apparel Purchase : An Application of the Theory of Planned Behavior." Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2019. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-15958.

Ó, Ana Priscila do. "O consumo de luxo e design de moda. Identificação de motivações e significados para a criação de produtos sustentáveis." Master's thesis, Faculdade de Arquitectura de Lisboa, 2012. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.5/5658.

Kivinen, Rasmus, and Natalya Licerio. "Hållbarhet - bara en attityd inom klädkonsumtion?" Thesis, Högskolan i Borås, Akademin för textil, teknik och ekonomi, 2019. http://urn.kb.se/resolve?urn=urn:nbn:se:hb:diva-21615.

BERNARDI, ALBERTA. "Produzione e consumo sostenibili: l’appello per il “decennio d’azione”." Doctoral thesis, Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10280/96135.

Costa, Ana Gonçalves da. "I s the world ready to have a sustainable fashion consumption? Extending the Theo ry of Planned Behaviour to understand the effects of b ar- riers towards sustainable fashion consumption." Dissertação, 2020. https://hdl.handle.net/10216/133072.

Costa, Ana Gonçalves da. "I s the world ready to have a sustainable fashion consumption? Extending the Theo ry of Planned Behaviour to understand the effects of b ar- riers towards sustainable fashion consumption." Master's thesis, 2020. https://hdl.handle.net/10216/133072.

Cáceres, Vianka Sidney Vargas. "Examining the effects of brand type on consumers’ brand valuations and sustainable fashion consumption : recycled fashion and brands." Master's thesis, 2018. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.14/25547.

Nägele, Christian. "Message framing to encourage sustainable fashion consumption : the interaction of materialism and gender." Master's thesis, 2017. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.14/25541.

Duarte, Madalena Maria Silva Ferreira Migueis. "Slow fashion or self-signaling? Sustainability in the fashion industry." Master's thesis, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10362/125041.

Pinheiro, Catarina Sofia Vidal. "O impacto do valor percebido pelo consumidor na atitude e intenção de compra de roupa sustentável." Master's thesis, 2020. http://hdl.handle.net/10316/94632.

Santos, Inês de Távora Barroco e. Moreira dos. "The evil behind fast fashion : awareness of sustainable practices and purchasing behaviors." Master's thesis, 2019. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.14/29175.

Bartle, Philipp Niklas. "The Adidas Futurecraft Loop : a product innovation challenging the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable footwear consumption." Master's thesis, 2021. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.14/35208.

Müller, Madeleine Cavalheiro. "Moda sustentável, consumo consciente e comunicação: estudo de casos no Rio Grande do Sul." Master's thesis, 2016. http://hdl.handle.net/10284/5839.

Survey: Consumer sentiment on sustainability in fashion

While the fashion industry is reorganizing for the next normal after the COVID-19 crisis, European consumers have become even more engaged in sustainability topics. That presents an opportunity for the fashion industry to reiterate its commitment to sustainability. Moreover, now could be the moment to drive less seasonality in the fashion system.

Our survey was conducted in April 2020 across more than 2,000 UK and German consumers. 1 The survey was conducted between April 14 and April 22, 2020, across 2,004 German and UK consumers aged 18 and older who had bought apparel or footwear in the prior six months. It is part of a firmwide effort to capture consumer sentiment during the COVID-19 crisis.

Sentiment toward sustainability

Amid the shock and uncertainty that the fashion sector is facing during the COVID-19 crisis, there is a silver lining for the environment: two-thirds of surveyed consumers state that it has become even more important to limit impacts on climate change. Additionally, 88 percent of respondents believe that more attention should be paid to reducing pollution.

In practice, consumers have already begun changing their behaviors accordingly. Of consumers surveyed, 57 percent have made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact, and more than 60 percent report going out of their way to recycle and purchase products in environmentally friendly packaging (Exhibit 1).

Emphasis on social and environmental commitments

While the industry is reorganizing for the next normal, it should consider that consumers want fashion players to uphold their social and environmental responsibilities amid the crisis. Of surveyed consumers, 67 percent consider the use of sustainable materials to be an important purchasing factor, and 63 percent consider a brand’s promotion of sustainability in the same way.

Additionally, surveyed consumers expect brands to take care of their employees, as well as workers in Asia, during the COVID-19 crisis (Exhibit 2). That highlights the need for brands to maintain ethical commitments, despite the crisis.

Overall, it is imperative to build trust and transparency with consumers, as 70 percent are sticking with brands they know and trust during the crisis. Of surveyed consumers, 75 percent consider a trusted brand to be an important purchasing factor. However, younger consumers, particularly Gen Zers and millennials, are more likely to experiment with smaller or lesser-known brands during the crisis (Exhibit 3).

Shift in purchasing behavior

With 88 percent of consumers expecting a slow recovery or a recession, general consumer confidence is low. As a result, consumer spending on fashion is also changing. More than 60 percent of consumers report spending less on fashion during the crisis, and approximately half expect that trend to continue after the crisis passes. However, consumers are likely to cut back on accessories, jewelry, and other discretionary categories before reducing their spending on apparel and footwear (Exhibit 4).

When it comes to making changes to purchasing behavior, younger consumer segments are willing to buy cheaper versions of products they normally buy—approximately 50 percent of Gen Zers and millennials in our survey report trading down (Exhibit 5).

The COVID-19 crisis has recruited new consumers to online channels: 43 percent of surveyed consumers who didn’t purchase fashion online before the crisis have started using online channels. And that shift is unlikely to reverse, as nearly 28 percent of consumers expect to buy less at physical stores—a trend seen in higher shares in Generation Z and millennial respondents (Exhibit 6).

Mindset on fashion cycles and circular business models

The survey findings indicate that the consumer mindset is not strongly tied to the fashion cycle, so now could be the moment to drive less seasonality in the fashion system. Of surveyed consumers, 65 percent are supportive of fashion brands delaying the launch of new collections as a result of the COVID-19 crisis. Additionally, 58 percent of respondents are less concerned about the fashion of clothing than other factors following the crisis, and consumers now cite newness as one of the least important attributes when making purchases (Exhibit 7).

As a result of the COVID-19 crisis, 65 percent of respondents are planning to purchase more durable fashion items, and 71 percent are planning to keep the items they already have for longer (Exhibit 8). Additionally, 57 percent of respondents are willing to repair items to prolong usage.

Particularly among younger European consumers, there is interest in purchasing secondhand fashion items following the COVID-19 crisis. Of surveyed consumers, around 50 percent of Gen Zers and millennials expect to purchase more items secondhand (Exhibit 9).

Overall, consumer sentiment suggests that the COVID-19 crisis could serve as a reset opportunity for players in the apparel, footwear, and luxury sectors to strengthen their sustainability commitments and accelerate industry-wide changes, such as reduced seasonality and scaling of circular business models.

Anna Granskog is a partner in McKinsey’s Helsinki office, Libbi Lee and Corinne Sawers are associate partners in the London office, and Karl-Hendrik Magnus is a senior partner in the Frankfurt office.

The authors wish to thank Poorni Polgampola, Nadya Snezhkova, and Jan Vlcek for their contributions to this article.

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Biodegradable fabric might be the next best thing in clothing

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Sustainable fabrics help the fashion industry rid itself of a global waste problem.

Britt Peterson photo

Every year Aarav Chavda goes scuba diving in the same Florida reefs. A former McKinsey analyst and mechanical engineer, Chavda has watched the corals blanch white over time, and he has noticed species dwindle— except the lionfish.

Local and federal officials near Atlantic and Caribbean waters have tried a number of methods to eradicate the lionfish, a gorgeously striped and spiny invasive species that has no predators in the region and eats many other fish. Chavda had a new idea: Make it fashion. Along with two other avid divers, Chavda founded a startup called Inversa and invented a process that transforms lionfish skin into a supple, attractive leather. Next, they added two other invasive species— Burmese pythons from the Florida Everglades and carp from the Mississippi River. They’ve achieved some real success: a number of brands, including Piper and Skye and Rex Shoes, have used their leathers for wallets, footballs, flip-flops, and a cool-looking python dagger and sheath .

dissertation on sustainable fashion

The toxic impact of the fashion industry – meaning not high fashion brands, but the companies that make the materials that form our clothes, as well as the companies constructing the clothes – is well-known. Up to 4 percent of global climate emissions, according to a McKinsey report , and an unknown but substantial percent of global water pollution also derive from it. This is a baffling, often overwhelming problem. Humans require clothing to survive – plus, we love our clothes and derive deep meaning from how we present ourselves to the world.

“It’s two sides of the coin,” says Monica Buchan-Ng, a sustainability expert at the London College of Fashion’s Centre for Sustainable Fashion. “[Clothes] can be this incredible creative force of self-expression and identity. But also we know that the way the fashion system works at present, it’s just destruction after destruction.”

However, the sheer reach of the industry also makes it a tremendous potential tool for innovation and change, and a number of new fabrics are a crucial part of that change. So far, Chavda says, Inversa has removed 50,000 lionfish, burmese pythons, and carp. In a few years, he hopes to be removing tens of millions. “I’m bullish,” Chavda says, “because I think the consumer cares.”

dissertation on sustainable fashion

Fashion addresses its sustainability problems

When asked about her favorite innovations in eco-friendly fashion, Julia Marsh, CEO of Sway, a company that makes a seaweed-based plastic used in delivery materials by large companies such as J. Crew, says simply, “Reuse and thrifting.”

It’s true that a cultural shift towards lower consumption, along with tighter governmental regulations, may be the most effective long-term solutions for mitigating the industry’s impact. But evolving the fabrics we use is an important piece of the puzzle as well.

Innovations

dissertation on sustainable fashion

Fabric waste is an increasingly toxic aspect of how fashion affects the planet. People bought nearly twice as much clothing in 2015 as in 2000 , and most of that ended up in landfills. Fast fashion brands like Shein and others produce – and stimulate consumer demand for – ever more cheaper clothing that falls apart quickly, adding to a global waste problem.

Many fabrics have a negative impact long before they’re thrown away. Cheaper synthetic fabrics, like polyester, contain microplastics that shed into the earth’s waters every time they’re washed. Cotton, although a “natural” fiber, is farmed with high levels of pesticide, and in some regions, relies on forced and/or child labor. As for leather, the livestock production required to create animal leather is not merely cruel to animals, it also causes deforestation, water pollution, and very high carbon emissions. But even “vegan” leather comes at a high cost, as it’s frequently made from products derived from fossil fuels, including polyurethane.

dissertation on sustainable fashion

At the moment it’s very difficult – not to mention expensive – to buy any new clothing that doesn’t have a negative effect on the planet but as awareness of the issue increases, so have attempted solutions. Over the last decade, governments (especially in the European Union) have begun, slowly, to regulate fabric waste, pollution and emissions. And more people have found new, environmentally-friendly ways to make clothes. Some of this effort starts with attacking supply chain problems, creating better systems for recycling or repurposing old clothing, or inventing dye processes that aren’t poisonous to waterways. But the field of material development has seen some particularly fascinating innovations as well.

Innovators experiment with biodegradable materials

Uyen Tran grew up in the city of Danang, Vietnam, an area dominated by garment factories. Acutely aware of the global reach of fashion manufacturing, she was also aware from a young age of the global reach of fashion waste. Growing up, she and her family would shop at second-hand stores for brand-name clothing rejected by Westerners: “a lot of North Face, Ralph Lauren …Nike,” she says. After moving to the United States, where she studied at Parsons School of Design and worked for some of the brands she had first encountered in Vietnamese secondhand shops, she became interested in methods of fabric manufacture that avoided those levels of waste.

dissertation on sustainable fashion

Her curiosity drove her to research chitin, a natural polymer that can be extracted from shrimp shells — a regenerative, no-waste product that can be ethically sourced from the Vietnamese seafood industry. She turns it into a liquid and flattens it to create a shiny material that looks and behaves somewhat like pleather or leather. TômTex, Tran’s company, also produces a second fabric derived from chitin found in mushrooms, a frequent favorite source of sustainable fabric innovators because of its quick growth and low environmental impact. TômTex has partnered with luxury brands like Dauphinette and Peter Do to showcase its innovative, high-fashion, fully biodegradable fabric. “Waste is something that humans created,” Tran says. “For me, if we create something, it should biodegrade and decompose as nutrients back to the soil, so animals can feed on it, a tree can grow on it.”

The next stage for TômTex is going beyond small-run capsule collections to commercialization: scaling up production so TômTex can replace a larger chunk of traditionally produced materials and make a real impact. To do so, they need significant investment. “Even brands that want to put in money … it’s not going to be $20 million,” Tran says. “We need that much to build a factory.” She’s working on brand relationships as a way of building visibility while pursuing venture capital.

Other sustainable fabric startups are searching for capital as well. Their innovations range from the fairly simple — adding sustainably farmed nettle fiber to a cotton blend, for instance, in the case of fashion company PANGAIA — to the hugely complex: bioengineering processes that might take many years to develop.

“We are at the frontier of new biomaterials, which have the potential to have a lower carbon footprint, to use much less water and much less chemicals, and potentially biodegrade naturally at the end of their life, depending on how they’re treated,” says Suzanne Lee, founder of Biofabricate, a consultancy firm that helps companies working on this type of material.

dissertation on sustainable fashion

Some companies are succeeding on a grand scale. The Japanese company Spiber, one of the more successful biotech companies working in fabric development, just announced that it had raised $65 million to support mass production of its plant-based, spider-silk-inspired fibers.

Other companies have struggled. “The thing you learn about all these advanced materials is they always are super promising in the beginning, in the lab,” says Dan Widmaier, the CEO of Bolt Threads, which recently had to pause production on a mushroom-based leather alternative called Mylo because of fundraising issues. “Can it work reproducibly at scale, meeting quality specs of the customer as they actually need them, meet their timelines and deliverables? Can it be financed to that scale? Those are the things that break all these.”

Innovation and finances meet in the middle

Earlier this year, a well-regarded Swedish fabric recycling company Renewcell declared bankruptcy , sending shock waves through this small and collegial world. Renewcell, which developed a process to turn old clothes into new cotton, had raised $10.6 million and opened its first factory in 2022. It had partnerships with a number of prominent brands including H & M, which had agreed to use 18,000 tons of its cloth, Circulose, in 2025. But orders still weren’t enough to support production, and the company also ran into quality issues that slowed it down.

Lee thinks the shock of the Renewcell failure could actually motivate brands to invest more steadily in other, similar products. “We actually really need to back these things if we want them to happen, because we just can’t assume they will naturally succeed on their own accord,” she says.

Meanwhile, sustainable fabric companies are just trying to get the word out. Spinnova is a Finnish company that turns cellulose from wood pulp into a biodegradable fiber. Brands like Marimekko and Adidas have used it in their clothes, and the company is scaling up production. “I think that’s actually the thing that speaks best for itself: having brands publish actual product and being able to show that, hey, look, this is real,” says CEO Tuomas Oijala. “It works, it meets the needs of consumers and by the way, it’s also a good value for money deal.”

dissertation on sustainable fashion

For the Inversa founders, the next step is reaching a larger audience of consumers and they are optimistic that their story will resonate. “I think when you tell the consumer, like, ‘Oh, buy this, you’re sustainable,’ you have to force them to acknowledge the guilt or the karma or whatever they were doing before,” Chavda says. “If you just tell them, ‘Hey, this wallet has saved these animals,’ or ‘You’re protecting these coral reefs,’ you just skip that whole piece.”

Inversa has already started considering what other invasive species it might use as a basis for its fabrics while continuing to build relationships with local fishing collectives, governments, and conservation NGOs to ensure it sources invasive species in the least harmful way.

Meanwhile, Chavda believes that the sustainable fabrics community is on its way to making real, lasting change. “We have different methodologies of doing it, but … whether that’s fiber made from seaweed or polyester spun in a different way that’s biodegradable, we’re all trying to do the same thing — make the planet a better place,” he says.

About this story

Editing by Bronwen Latimer. Copy editing by Jeremy Lang. Design and development by Audrey Valbuena. Design editing by Betty Chavarria. Photo editing by Haley Hamblin. Project development by Evan Bretos and Hope Corrigan. Project editing by Marian Chia-Ming Liu.

Report: Leading Fashion Brands Rethinking Relationship with Nature, Moving Toward Key Sustainability Benchmarks

April 30, 2024, more than half of the fashion pact members developing actionable biodiversity strategies .

ARLINGTON, Va. (April 30, 2024) – Industry-leading fashion companies have made significant progress toward achieving environmental goals addressing deforestation and biodiversity loss, ocean plastics, fossil fuel usage, and more. The “ Transforming the Fashion Sector to Drive Positive Outcomes for Biodiversity, Climate, and Oceans ” project, led by Conservation International – in partnership with The Fashion Pact (TFP) and with support from the Global Environment Facility (GEF) – shows progress among member companies toward the goal of halting and reversing biodiversity loss and reaching net zero emissions by 2050.

The release of the Project Retrospective Report highlights the strides made over the last three years by 60+ member companies toward sustainability objectives concerning climate, biodiversity, and oceans. The Fashion Pact, launched as an initiative at 2019 G7 Summit in Biarritz, is the largest CEO-led initiative for sustainability in fashion, representing more than 160 brands, including Kering, Inditex, J.Crew, H&M , and Ralph Lauren.

In 2021, the GEF awarded Conservation International  a $2 million grant to support the development and implementation of several fashion-specific tools, guides, reporting mechanisms and pilot projects for Fashion Pact members to develop actionable, science-based nature strategies, supply chains, and to complement existing industry sustainability efforts. A summary of the project outcomes can be found in the  Project Retrospective Report here .

Of the Fashion Pact member companies who documented their progress (76% of active members in 2023), the report shows that:

  • 52%now have a formal  strategy in place marking a significant jump from only 10% two years ago; and
  • 69% are currently implementing measures to reduce their company’s impact on nature and climate during the process of harvesting fibers and raw materials used to make fabrics.

These accomplishments underscore The Fashion Pact's commitment to driving environmental resilience across the fashion landscape. Participating CEOs pledge that their company – brand, supplier, retailer or manufacturer – will follow the roadmap set by The Fashion Pact to lower and ultimately resolve the fashion industry’s negative impacts on nature and climate. All participating companies must pursue sustainability via three pillars: biodiversity, climate and oceans.

“This is a significant moment in the transition towards a nature-positive and net-zero fashion industry, as it means these brands not only agree on what they need to aim for, but also what is required to get there. Our work now is to accelerate the necessary action to reach the destination set out in these strategies and targets,” said Eva von Alvensleben, executive director, The Fashion Pact.

This work was supported by an additional $4 million in co-financing from Conservation International and partners who came together with their technical expertise and experience to work in support of fashion companies helping advance the sector transformation.

“As fashion consumption continues to grow, we’ve seen in real-time how the production of raw materials such as cotton, leather, wool, and cashmere as well as the process of creating, shipping and selling, and disposing of garments does lasting damage to the environment,” said Franklin Holley, director of sustainable fashion at Conservation International, which serves as the delivery partner for The Fashion Pact’s biodiversity pillar. “Actions speak louder than words, so we’re thrilled to see these signs of progress in our project report. In under five years, these industry leaders have made leaps and bounds in setting their sustainability goals and taking tangible steps to reach them.”

Through leveraging public funding to facilitate private sector engagement, Conservation International and The Fashion Pact discovered the impact raising awareness, building capacities, and providing tools to enable on-the-ground actions. As the industry moves forward, the project serves as a promising model for sustainable fashion initiatives, offering a vision of environmentally conscious and impactful industry endeavors led by a new generation of initiatives.

"The fashion industry has an opportunity to capitalize on the results achieved to develop innovative business models that prioritize environmental sustainability and curb the unsustainable production of fashion goods. That would accelerate its path towards combatting biodiversity loss, achieving net-zero emissions, eliminating pollution, and fostering a more sustainable future," said Claude Gascon, director of strategy and operations at the GEF.

Supporting partners in addition to Conservation International and the GEF include: The Textile Exchange, The Biodiversity Consultancy, University of Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership, The Dragonfly Initiative, The Impact Facility, International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Green Commodities Programme, the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) and the Wildlife Friendly Enterpise Network. 

About Conservation International: Conservation International protects nature for the benefit of humanity. Through science, policy, fieldwork and finance, we spotlight and secure the most important places in nature for the climate, for biodiversity and for people. With offices in 30 countries and projects in more than 100 countries, Conservation International partners with governments, companies, civil society, Indigenous peoples and local communities to help people and nature thrive together. Go to  Conservation.org  for more, and follow our work on  Conservation News ,  Facebook ,  Twitter ,  TikTok ,  Instagram  and  YouTube .

About the Global Environmental Facility: The Global Environment Facility (GEF) is a multilateral family of funds dedicated to confronting biodiversity loss, climate change, and pollution, and supporting land and ocean health. Its financing enables developing countries to address complex challenges and work towards international environmental goals. The partnership includes 186 member governments as well as civil society, Indigenous Peoples, women, and youth, with a focus on integration and inclusivity. Over the past three decades, the GEF has provided nearly $25 billion in financing and mobilized another $138 billion for thousands of priority projects and programs. The family of funds includes the Global Environment Facility Trust Fund,  Global Biodiversity Framework Fund  (GBFF),  Least Developed Countries Fund  (LDCF),  Special Climate Change Fund  (SCCF),  Nagoya Protocol Implementation Fund  (NPIF), and  Capacity-building Initiative for Transparency Trust Fund  (CBIT).

About The Fashion Pact:  The Fashion Pact is a global initiative of companies in the fashion and textile industry (ready-to-wear, sport, lifestyle and luxury) who have all committed to a common core of key environmental goals in three areas: mitigating climate change, restoring biodiversity and protecting the oceans. Launched by French President Emmanuel Macron, The Fashion Pact was presented to Heads of State at the G7 Summit in Biarritz in 2019 by François-Henri Pinault, Chairman & CEO of Kering. Uniquely, the Fashion Pact is CEO-led, action-oriented, and focuses on building upon and going beyond existing efforts. Today, the pact is composed of approx. 60 members, together representing over 1/3 of the fashion industry, each eager to leverage collective action to scale and achieve impact.

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  1. Analysis of the sustainability aspects of fashion: A literature review

    The fashion industry is the second-most polluting industry in the world. 1-3 This is the main reason why it has to be transformed into a more sustainable one. Fashion sustainability is a complex issue 4 that covers three equivalently important aspects: environmental, social, and economic. 3-9 The environmental aspect considers the creation of ecological value and resource saving.

  2. From Fast Fashion to Sustainable Slow Fashion

    Millward-Pena, Isabel Agatha, "FROM FAST FASHION TO SUSTAINABLE SLOW FASHION" (2022). Electronic Theses, Projects, and Dissertations. 1453. https://scholarworks.lib.csusb.edu/etd/1453. This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Ofice of Graduate Studies at CSUSB ScholarWorks.

  3. Sustainable Luxury Fashion Consumption Through a Circular Economy

    Luxury fashion industry leaders now face a significant business challenge: keep creating luxury fashion for a growing population with disposable income without further damaging the planet (Athwal et al., 2019; Grant, 2020). While luxury fashion leaders publicly support sustainable consumption, their business models remain underdeveloped

  4. The Sustainable Future of the Modern Fashion Industry

    Abstract. Sustainable fashion is a recent movement within the fashion industry that aims to reduce. textile waste and environmental depletion while increasing ethical treatment of workers; the goal. is to slow down the global production and consumption process in order to form an industry that.

  5. PDF Transitioning the Fashion Industry towards Sustainability

    iv STATEMENT OF CONTRIBUTIONS I am the sole author of all chapters, with the exception of chapter 2, of this dissertation. Chapter 2 is based on a co-authored manuscript with Dr. Olaf Weber.

  6. PDF Consumer Awareness on Sustainable Fashion

    how sustainable fashion products are promoted, and what threats to sustainable fashion exist. The second concept introduces the factors that influence consumer buying behavior. The third concept evaluates the consumer awareness of sustainable fashion. The thesis work employs a qualitative research method and a deductive approach. The

  7. PDF Fashion, unsustainability issues, from consumer identity to sustainable

    Aalto University, P.O. BOX 11000, 00076 AALTO www.aalto.fi Abstract of master's thesis Author Linh My Nguyen Title of thesis Fashion, unsustainability issues, from consumer identity to sustainable fashion consumption and brand design. Degree Master of Science in Economics and Business Administration Degree programme International Design Business Management

  8. Sustainable fashion

    I Abstract Title: Sustainable Fashion - practices, strategies, and meanings. Aim: To understand the practices and strategies of sustainable fashion consumers and the meanings that are being attached to the execution of sustainable fashion consumption. Methodology: This thesis is based on an ethnographic-inspired methodology to fulfill its aim.

  9. PDF University of Oklahoma Sustainability En Vogue: How Can the Fashion

    evolution of fashion, the major events that propelled it forward, and the fashion industry's place in global economies demonstrates how important sustainable impact measurements are in reducing the waste behaviors of the industry and consumers alike. 1.3 Sustainable research links between fashion industry and academic literature.

  10. How COVID-19 has accelerated the shift A Thesis Presented to The

    towards a more sustainable fashion industry A Thesis Presented to The Faculty and the Honors Program Of the University of San Diego By Samantha Casey Business Administration 2021 . COVID-19: A CATALYST FOR SUSTAINABLE FASHION 1 Abstract Sustainability in fast fashion is a pertinent issue as the fashion industry is one of the most ...

  11. PDF The impact of fast fashion on the environment: Perspectives from

    The structure of this dissertation is presented in 6 chapters. Chapter 1 outlines the background of the study and provides an overview of chapters. Chapter 2 presents an up-to-date review of the literature, which considers the definition of fast fashion and literature related to Fast Fashion. This consists mainly of

  12. PDF Thesis Fashion and Sustainability: Increasing Knowledge About Slow

    THESIS FASHION AND SUSTAINABILITY: INCREASING KNOWLEDGE ABOUT SLOW FASHION THROUGH AN EDUCATIONAL MODULE Submitted by Rachel Preuit Department of Design and Merchandising ... Sustainable consumption - an "umbrella term" that combines meeting needs, improved quality of life, increasing use of renewable energy sources, minimizing waste, and ...

  13. Predicting sustainable fashion consumption intentions and practices

    The fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment, and sustainable fashion consumption (SFC) has become a pressing concern. This study aimed to investigate the factors influencing ...

  14. (PDF) Sustainability and the Fashion Industry

    Ten per cent of the world's carbon emissions come from the fashion industry, which also drains a lot of water from the ground and pollutes waterways (Network, 2021). The issue of sustainability is ...

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    sustainable marketing in fashion should be introduced. Secondly, the information about eco problems caused by fashion industry should be explained. Such information is the core for explaining the topic of this thesis. In the book, ³Fashionopolis b\ Dana Thomas, the infor-mation about fashion industry and environmental problems is given.

  16. PDF Interest of Female Consumers in Finland About Sustainable Fashion

    Sustainable Fashion. This thesis is carried out in favour of the author's recent launch of a sustainable clothing line. Therefore, the topic is mainly chosen for the theory with a purpose in mind that it would somewhat give an idea and enables the author to gain deeper insights on the

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    This paper attempts to provide an up-to-date depiction and analysis of the consumer's attitude towards sustainability of fast fashion products in the UK. Four related strands of literature are reviewed to establish a tri-component model of attitude (ABC), i.e., Affective, Behavioural and Cognitive. A wide set of determinants for attitude is identified, including income, price, gender ...

  18. Sustainable and Ethical Fashion Consumption: the role of Consumer

    By contrast, this thesis has focused on an in-depth study of ten mothers aged between 25 and 60 in and around Leicester. ... Sustainable fashion consumption can be defined as "the use of clothing for purposes beyond utilitarian needs, which is achieved without jeopardizing the ability of future generations to meet their needs" (Eder-Hansen ...

  19. PDF Manchester Metropolitan University

    Manchester Metropolitan University

  20. 80 Fashion Sustainability Research Topics

    These dissertation topics in Fashion Sustainability provide ample opportunities to research for undergraduate and doctoral students. 44-20-8133-2020. ... Fashion Sustainability also known as "sustainable fashion," "ethical fashion," and "eco-friendly fashion", are the compass guiding students venturing into the expansive domain of ...

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    More than half of The Fashion Pact members developing actionable biodiversity strategies . ARLINGTON, Va. (April 30, 2024) - Industry-leading fashion companies have made significant progress toward achieving environmental goals addressing deforestation and biodiversity loss, ocean plastics, fossil fuel usage, and more.The "Transforming the Fashion Sector to Drive Positive Outcomes for ...

  25. Fashion Dissertation Topics & Ideas 2024

    Selecting the best fashion dissertation topic includes a thorough assessment of various aspects to ensure the connection and accuracy of the examination. One strategy is to investigate sustainable fashion disse rtation topics to explore the environmental impact of the fashion industry. Moreover, research topics in fashion and textiles offer ...