h&m in china case study

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H&M in China

By: Andrew Inkpen, Jonas Gamso

In March 2021, the Chinese government blocked access to H&M on leading e-commerce, ride-hailing, daily-deals, and map sites. The online blocking and calls for customer boycotts were in response to…

• Length: 9 page(s)
• Publication Date: Aug 31, 2021
• Discipline: Business Ethics
• Product #: TB0642-PDF-ENG

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In March 2021, the Chinese government blocked access to H&M on leading e-commerce, ride-hailing, daily-deals, and map sites. The online blocking and calls for customer boycotts were in response to H&M's September 2020 statement that it would no longer source cotton from Xinjiang because of concerns about forced labor. At the time, H&M operated more than 500 stores in China, and it was the company's fourth largest country market. How will the boycott impact the H&M brand in China? How will H&M's decision impact its brand in other markets, such as the U.S., Germany, and the UK? Should H&M change its sourcing stance in China? Which stakeholders should H&M target in its messaging? Should H&M issue new supply chain statements?

Learning Objectives

In examining H&M in the Chinese market, students will learn about:

The challenges of balancing corporate CSR policies with national market strategies

The risks of CSR decisions on brand reputation

The balance between the benefits of outsourcing and its strategic risks

The relevant stakeholders impacted by CSR decisions

How to respond to local market brand and reputation problems with an action plan

Aug 31, 2021

Discipline:

Business Ethics

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Retail and consumer goods

Thunderbird School of Global Management

TB0642-PDF-ENG

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What Is Going On With China, Cotton and All of These Clothing Brands?

A user’s guide to the latest cross-border social media fashion crisis.

By Vanessa Friedman and Elizabeth Paton

Last week, calls for the cancellation of H&M and other Western brands went out across Chinese social media as human rights campaigns collided with cotton sourcing and political gamesmanship. Here’s what you need to know about what’s going on and how it may affect everything from your T-shirts to your trench coats.

What’s all this I’m hearing about fashion brands and China? Did someone make another dumb racist ad?

No, it’s much more complicated than an offensive and obvious cultural faux pas . The issue centers on the Xinjiang region of China and allegations of forced labor in the cotton industry — allegations denied by the Chinese government. Last summer, many Western brands issued statements expressing concerns about human rights in their supply chain. Some even cut ties with the region all together.

Now, months later, the chickens are coming home to roost: Chinese netizens are reacting with fury, charging the allegations are an offense to the state. Leading Chinese e-commerce platforms have kicked major international labels off their sites, and a slew of celebrities have denounced their former foreign employers.

Why is this such a big deal?

The issue has growing political and economic implications . On the one hand, as the pandemic continues to roil global retail, consumers have become more attuned to who makes their clothes and how they are treated, putting pressure on brands to put their values where their products are. One the other, China has become an evermore important sales hub to the fashion industr y, given its scale and the fact that there is less disruption there than in other key markets, like Europe. Then, too, international politicians are getting in on the act, imposing bans and sanctions. Fashion has become a diplomatic football.

This is a perfect case study of what happens when market imperatives come up against global morality.

Tell me more about Xinjiang and why it is so important.

Xinjiang is a region in northwest China that happens to produce about a fifth of the world’s cotton. It is home to many ethnic groups, especially the Uyghurs , a Muslim minority. Though it is officially the largest of China’s five autonomous regions, which in theory means it has more legislative self-control, the central government has been increasingly involved in the area, saying it must exert its authority because of local conflicts with the Han Chinese (the ethnic majority) who have been moving into the region. This has resulted in draconian restrictions, surveillance, criminal prosecutions and forced-labor camps .

OK, and what about the Uyghurs?

A predominantly Muslim Turkic group, the Uyghur population within Xinjiang numbers just over 12 million, according to official figures released by Chinese authorities. As many as one million Uyghurs and other Muslim minorities have been retrained to become model workers, obedient to the Chinese Communist Party via coercive labor programs.

So this has been going on for awhile?

At least since 2016. But after The New York Times , The Wall Street Journal , Axios and others published reports that connected Uyghurs in forced detention to the supply chains of many of the world’s best-known fashion retailers, including Adidas, Lacoste, H&M, Ralph Lauren and the PVH Corporation, which owns Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, many of those brands reassessed their relationships with Xinjiang-based cotton suppliers.

In January, the Trump administration banned all imports of cotton from the region, as well as products made from the material and declared what was happening “ genocide .” At the time, the Workers Rights Consortium estimated that material from Xinjiang was involved in more than 1.5 billion garments imported annually by American brands and retailers.

That’s a lot! How do I know if I am wearing a garment made from Xinjiang cotton?

You don’t. The supply chain is so convoluted and subcontracting so common that often it’s hard for brands themselves to know exactly where and how every component of their garments is made.

So if this has been an issue for over a year, why is everyone in China freaking out now?

It isn’t immediately clear. One theory is that it is because of the ramp-up in political brinkmanship between China and the West. On March 22, Britain, Canada, the European Union and the United States announced sanctions on Chinese officials in an escalating row over the treatment of Uyghurs in Xinjiang.

Not long after, screenshots from a statement posted in September 2020 by H&M citing “deep concerns” about reports of forced labor in Xinjiang, and confirming that the retailer had stopped buying cotton from growers in the region, began circulating on Chinese social media. The fallout was fast and furious . There were calls for a boycott, and H&M products were soon missing from China’s most popular e-commerce platforms, Alibaba Group’s Tmall and JD.com. The furor was stoked by comments on the microblogging site Sina Weibo from groups like the Communist Youth League , an influential Communist Party organization.

Within hours, other big Western brands like Nike and Burberry began trending for the same reason.

And it’s not just consumers who are up in arms: Influencers and celebrities have also been severing ties with the brands. Even video games are bouncing virtual “looks” created by Burberry from their platforms.

Backtrack: What do influencers have to do with all this?

Influencers in China wield even more power over consumer behavior than they do in the West, meaning they play a crucial role in legitimizing brands and driving sales. When Tao Liang, otherwise known as Mr. Bags, did a collaboration with Givenchy, for example, the bags sold out in 12 minutes; a necklace-bracelet set he made with Qeelin reportedly sold out in one second (there were 100 made). That’s why H&M worked with Victoria Song, Nike with Wang Yibo and Burberry with Zhou Dongyu.

But Chinese influencers and celebrities are also sensitive to pleasing the central government and publicly affirming their national values, often performatively choosing their country over contracts.

In 2019, for example, Yang Mi, the Chinese actress and a Versace ambassador, publicly repudiated the brand when it made the mistake of creating a T-shirt that listed Hong Kong and Macau as independent countries, seeming to dismiss the “One China” policy and the central government’s sovereignty. Not long afterward, Coach was targeted after making a similar mistake, creating a tee that named Hong Kong and Taiwan separately; Liu Wen, the Chinese supermodel, immediately distanced herself from the brand.

And what’s with the video games?

Tencent removed two Burberry-designed “skins” — outfits worn by video game characters that the brand had introduced with great fanfare — from its popular title Honor of Kings as a response to news that the brand had stopped buying cotton produced in the Xinjiang region. The looks had been available for less than a week.

So this is hitting both fast fashion and the high end. How much of the fashion world is involved?

Potentially, most of it. So far Adidas, Nike, Converse and Burberry have all been swept up in the crisis. Even before the ban, additional companies like Patagonia, PVH, Marks & Spencer and the Gap had announced that they did not source material from Xinjiang and had officially taken a stance against human rights abuses.

This week, however, several brands, including VF Corp., Inditex (which owns Zara) and PVH all quietly removed their policies against forced labor from their websites.

That seems squirrelly. Is this likely to escalate?

Brands seem to be concerned that the answer is yes, since, apparently fearful of offending the Chinese government, some companies have proactively announced that they will continue buying cotton from Xinjiang. Last week, Hugo Boss , the German company whose suiting is a de facto uniform for the financial world, posted a statement on Weibo saying, “We will continue to purchase and support Xinjiang cotton” (even though last fall the company had announced it was no longer sourcing from the region). But on March 30, a spokeswoman told The New York Times that the post was unauthorized and had since been deleted . Muji, the Japanese brand, is also proudly touting its use of Xinjiang cotton on its Chinese websites, as is Uniqlo .

Wait … I get playing possum, but why would a company publicly pledge its allegiance to Xinjiang cotton?

It’s about the Benjamins, buddy. According to a report from Bain & Company released last December, China is expected to be the world’s largest luxury market by 2025. Last year it was the only part of the world to report year on year growth, with the luxury market reaching 44 billion euros ($52.2 billion).

Is anyone going to come out of this well?

One set of winners could be the Chinese fashion industry, which has long played second fiddle to Western brands, to the frustration of many businesses there. Shares in Chinese apparel groups and textile companies with ties to Xinjiang rallied this week as the backlash gained pace. And more than 20 Chinese brands publicly made statements touting their support for Chinese cotton.

Vanessa Friedman is The Times's fashion director and chief fashion critic. She was previously the fashion editor of the Financial Times. More about Vanessa Friedman

Elizabeth Paton is a reporter for the Styles section, covering the fashion and luxury sectors in Europe. Before joining The Times in 2015, she was a reporter at the Financial Times both in London and New York. More about Elizabeth Paton

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H&M in China

In March 2021, the Chinese government blocked access to H&M on leading e-commerce, ride-hailing, daily-deals, and map sites. The online blocking and calls for customer boycotts were in response to H&M’s September 2020 statement that it would no longer source cotton from Xinjiang because of concerns about forced labor. At the time, H&M operated more than 500 stores in China, and it was the company’s fourth largest country market. How will the boycott impact the H&M brand in China? How will H&M’s decision impact its brand in other markets, such as the U.S., Germany, and the UK? Should H&M change its sourcing stance in China? Which stakeholders should H&M target in its messaging? Should H&M issue new supply chain statements?

Andrew Inkpen

Jonas Gamso

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H&m, china, and cotton: sourcing a solution, product overview.

In December 2021, Hennes & Mauritz AB (H&M), the Swedish fast-fashion clothing retailer, found itself in a difficult position regarding its business in China, one of the retailer’s important markets. H&M was a member of the sustainability organization, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), which in March 2020 had suspended activities with licensed farmers in the Xinjiang province of China because of allegations of forced labor and human rights abuses against the Uyghur Muslim minority in that region. H&M’s statement of support for BCI’s actions, released in September 2020, had generated a fierce backlash from China. H&M’s business in that country, both online and in stores, virtually disappeared. Complicating the situation, the option of negotiating peace over Xinjiang cotton had now been taken out of the company’s hands by the passage of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (HR 1115), signed into law by US president Joe Biden on December 23, 2021, which prohibited “imports made by forced labor into the United States of products made in Xinjiang.” The law would be implemented six months later on June 21, 2022. The European Union (EU), which in October 2021 had promised a ban on imports from the Xinjiang region, was also expected to act on that promise soon. H&M needed to decide how to navigate the tricky and delicate impasse with China. What could the company do about the allegations of human rights abuses in the supply chain when there was no way thus far to irrefutably confirm or deny their existence at the source? And how could it appease China without sacrificing its values and commitment to sustainably sourced cotton? There were few supply options outside China. Additionally, China was a major market. Yet H&M had joined and was committed to the move toward sustainable operations. How could it reconcile the conflicting pressures?

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Publication Date: August 31, 2021

Industry: Retail and consumer goods

Source: Thunderbird School of Global Management

In March 2021, the Chinese government blocked access to H&M on leading e-commerce, ride-hailing, daily-deals, and map sites. The online blocking and calls for customer boycotts were in response to H&M's September 2020 statement that it would no longer source cotton from Xinjiang because of concerns about forced labor. At the time, H&M operated more than 500 stores in China, and it was the company's fourth largest country market. How will the boycott impact the H&M brand in China? How will H&M's decision impact its brand in other markets, such as the U.S., Germany, and the UK? Should H&M change its sourcing stance in China? Which stakeholders should H&M target in its messaging? Should H&M issue new supply chain statements?

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Statement on H&M in China

News article.

We are working together with our colleagues in China to do everything we can to manage the current challenges and find a way forward.

China is a very important market to us and our long-term commitment to the country remains strong. Having been present there for more than thirty years, we have witnessed remarkable progress within the Chinese textile industry. Being at the forefront of innovation and technology, China will clearly continue to play an important role in further developing the entire industry. We are proud our suppliers are being part of that development and we want to continue contributing to driving progress together with our partners and stakeholders in the country. We want to be a responsible buyer, in China and elsewhere, and are now building forward-looking strategies and actively working on next steps with regards to material sourcing. Together with all relevant stakeholders, we want to collaborate to be part of the solution and jointly build a more sustainable fashion industry.

As a global company, we comply with local laws and regulatory frameworks in all the markets where we operate. Our company values are built on trust, respect, integrity, and dialogue. We wish to focus on our core business and on what we do best – bringing fashion and design to our customers all around the world.

We are dedicated to regaining the trust and confidence of our customers, colleagues, and business partners in China. By working together with stakeholders and partners, we believe we can take steps in our joint efforts to develop the fashion industry, as well as serve our customers and act in a respectful way.

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A year-old H&M statement about Xinjiang cotton is getting fierce blowback in China

H&M is facing a harsh backlash in China over a year-old statement it made expressing concerns about forced labor in Xinjiang.

On Weibo, a large Chinese social media platform, users have called for a boycott of the Swedish fast-fashion chain. It also appears to be blocked on China’s biggest e-commerce sites. On Alibaba’s Tmall platform, H&M’s official store is no longer accessible , and searches for its products on Taobao, Pinduoduo, and JD.com return no results, multiple sources have reported.

Actor Huang Xuan and singer Victoria Song, whom H&M had previously signed as brand ambassadors in the country, both emphasized they were no longer working with H&M. In a statement, Huang said he opposes behavior that “spreads rumor about China and human rights.”

State media has also gone on the attack against H&M. Broadcaster CCTV criticized the company for “eating China’s rice while smashing its pot,” France 24 reports . The Beijing-backed Global Times spotlighted comments from angry social media users calling for H&M to leave China, where H&M had more than 500 stores (pdf) and generated just over $1.1 billion in sales last year.

The uproar appears to have started after the Communist Youth League, once a powerful organization for grooming Chinese officials , lashed out at H&M on Weibo, according to fashion trade outlet WWD (paywall). “Spreading rumors to boycott Xinjiang cotton, while also wanting to make money in China? Wishful thinking!” it said. It included H&M’s statement in reply to the decision by Better Cotton Initiative, an organization focused on improving cotton’s environmental and social sustainability, to stop working in Xinjiang last year.

Western companies risk angering Beijing

The company has addressed its ties to Xinjiang in the past year as Western researchers and authorities allege China is pressing Uyghurs and other predominately Muslim ethnic minorities into forced labor and internment camps. Xinjiang is a major source of products such as cotton and tomatoes believed to be produced with forced labor and that make their way into the supply chains of international corporations. H&M has said (pdf) it is “deeply concerned” by the allegations and that it does not source products from Xinjiang. It declined to comment on the anger it is now contending with in the country.

It’s unclear why a year-old statement has become the center of the outrage online, but it comes as tensions escalate between China and western nations. This week, the US, European Union, and Canada imposed coordinated sanctions on Chinese officials they accused of human rights abuses in Xinjiang. China, which has routinely denied the claims, immediately struck back with sanctions on European officials and organizations.

The situation puts multinational corporations in a sensitive position. Many companies in clothing, footwear, and other industries are trying to distance themselves from ties to Xinjiang. But in doing so, they risk angering Beijing, which has a history of mobilizing citizens to punish foreign companies that take positions opposing its own. The costs can be high. The National Basketball Association lost hundreds of millions over a spat with Beijing after a team’s general manager voiced his support for pro-democracy protesters in Hong Kong.

Companies have refrained from condemning China’s actions in Xinjiang. But plenty have made statements against forced labor and insist they don’t source from the region, including big names such as Nike , Uniqlo , and Inditex , owner of Zara.

Chinese companies may take a different course. Vice News reports that Anta, China’s homegrown sports giant, has released a statement on Weibo saying it has always used Chinese cotton, including from Xinjiang.

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You are in: Home » Research Articles » Research Articles » Case Study: How H&M is changing from global to local… sustainably

Case Study: How H&M is changing from global to local… sustainably

By chloe rigby.

Shoppers can recycle clothes at H&M’s UK stores

In recent years, H&M has transformed the way it does business. It’s gone from being a one-size-fits-all global giant, to a retailer that still sells around the world, but does so with a more finely tuned local strategy. The fashion to homewares retailer, ranked Leading in RXUK Top500 research, is integrating its online services into its physical stores and is putting customers in charge with a mobile app that helps them connect with online or their local shop – which ever is better for them.

Shoppers can now collect and return their online orders at more and more stores as H&M rolls out this strategy. They can also turn on ‘in-store mode’ to search their local store for the products they want to buy, even from a distance, using text search and visual search. When customers are already in the shop, they can scan clothes tags for more information. They can find out whether sizes and colours are available in the store or online, what the item is made of, how to look after it and how to style it. Customers who sign up to become H&M members can opt for free delivery, collection and access to different ways of paying as the retailer meets shopper demands while, at the same time, getting to know its customers better.

“Our ongoing transformation work to meet customers’ ever-increasing expectations is bearing fruit,” said H&M chief executive Karl Johan Persson in the company’s financial statement for the first nine months of its 2018/19 financial year. He added, “Looking ahead, we remain humble considering the challenges brought by the rapid shift in fashion retail. Our transformation work is therefore continuing at a fast pace in all parts of the company.”

At the same time, H&M is testing new and innovative ideas, with a fresh emphasis on sustainability. Shoppers at its new Stockholm store, for example, can now rent skirts and dresses from its Conscious Exclusive collections. The store is designed to be more inspirational, displaying images shoppers have shared of how they wear H&M products. But it’s also convenient, with payment available through self-service checkouts. In the Netherlands, H&M is testing a bicycle delivery option that’s particularly relevant to that market. In the UK, shoppers can recycle clothes at any H&M store, receiving a £5 voucher in exchange for each bag.

H&M’s strategy is about getting closer and more convenient for its customers. The figures suggest that it seems to be working. Online sales grew by 30% in the first nine months of its 2018/19 year, and overall sales by 12%, while pre-tax profits after one-off costs were 25% ahead, compared to the same time in the previous year.  

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